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Bremerton isn’t the most bike-friendly town.
I’m not talking about the usual gripes, the scarcity of
designated bike lanes, eager motorists or the fellow in a passing
car who screamed “Faggot!” at me last week.
I’m talking about the hills. They want to kill me.
In Bremerton it feels like 90 percent of the time you’re
peddling up hill.
That remaining 10 percent – going down hill – is sweet,
sometimes terrifying, but rarely do I have time to catch my breath
and dry my sweat before grinding the gears for another Olympic
Mountain Range foothill.
Not inclines, where a different gear might take the edge off the
burning. Not tilts, where it’s hard to tell if you are going uphill
or plowing into a headwind.
We’re talking mountain-sized clumps of rock dug up from the
middle of the ocean and dumped right in my path. They’re so tall I
can’t see what’s on the other side. Usually it’s another
mountain.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m no cyclist. I’m a guy who likes to ride
bikes at night, sometimes while smoking cigarettes.
A real bicycle rider might sniff at Bremerton’s hills and with a
wave of the hand dismiss those heights against which I struggle as
“depressed mounds.”
One day I hope to be a real cyclist and shoot up hills without
changing gears or diverting into cul-de-sacs and driveways to catch
my breath. I’ve been riding around Bremerton most nights for the
past month or so and already I feel stronger physically and
mentally and have a sense of superiority to everybody behind the
wheel of a car, except for when I’m driving a car. I don’t wear
leotards and spandex shirts, yet. I’m not sure if I will, but I
won’t rule it out.
Despite the hills, Bremerton is a great ride, especially at
night.*
Reduced visibility makes riding at night more hazardous, and
nature rides are boring and kind of scary in the dark, but there
are less cars and the sights in Bremerton are inspiring in the new
age sense of the word.
Here we have postcard vistas that only come out at night,
amazing views of hills strewn with lights that stir deep, profound
feelings. That’s why they call Bremerton the Paris of Kitsap
County. My favorite views are of the Manette Bridge from the Warren
Avenue Bridge. And vice-versa.
There’s diversions, distractions, short cuts, long cuts, you can
ramble around Bremerton at night aimlessly and never arrive at any
kind of point.
I know what you’re thinking, and yes, riding around downtown is
fun, partly because it’s so empty, it feels like you’re riding
through a darkened movie set. While in the area, visit the 7-11 at
Park Avenue and Sixth Street. It’s an interesting place any time of
day, but I see more people getting arrested there at night.
Helmets are a must, any time of day, but at night a front and
back light are also required. It felt a little silly at first, the
flashing lights, like I’m a clown at a birthday party. I got over
the self-consciousness, now I like it.
I distracted a drunk on Perry Avenue stumbling along with his
drunk friend.
“That’s a nice flashing light you got there, buddy,” he said, but I
don’t think he was my buddy. Also, while riding through Belltown in
Seattle a couple weeks ago I noticed my flashing headlamp irritated
drug dealers.
Another thrill of riding at night is people watching. Depending
on where you are, pedestrians regard you as a curious apparition,
rising from the mist and rocketing past, leaving them unsure if
they imagined you. Or, after seeing your flashing lights, you
become invisible and they ignore you and go about their business.
While riding past, you share the same space, but you don’t always
say “Please don’t mug me,” like you would if you walked past
somebody on a deserted, dark sidewalk.
But more than the spectacle of lights and seediness, there’s the
feeling of getting away with something, like being out past mom’s
curfew and enjoying the ride more for that very fact. And danger.
You can’t have adventure without danger.
Night is when drunks rule the road. I’m talking about drunk
drivers, not about drunk cyclists, the roving gangs of renegade
bikers who wear tight-fitting outfits that wick sweat and prevent
chaffing. People say they are more vicious than rollerbladers, but
I’m not so sure. All I know is if somebody beats me up and steals
my bike I might cry. I put stickers on it and everything.
In a way I’m like Knight Rider, the show about the cool car. The
city’s high school’s mascot is a knight. And I ride.
The difference is I have a bicycle and don’t go around solving
people’s problems with heroin smugglers and Soviet-funded Death
Rays. I guess I could give it a shot if somebody is bothering
you.
I’m more like Night Rider, which would be a cool tattoo.
*Rejected suggestion for new Bremerton tourism
slogan
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Do you want to be a Night Rider?
It’s pretty easy.
I bought my bike off craigslist.com last year
for $125 from a German exchange student who struck me as an honest
chap. It’s never given me a problem. A helmet and lights can be had
for about $50.
At first you’ll get a sore bum, and feel like you’re walking on
rubber bands, as my friend Jack said, but after a few weeks you
start feeling strong.
Ride to work and be energy independent and maybe save years on
your life. The bike will quickly pay for itself. And the
adventures, don’t forget the adventures.