If all goes as planned, beer geeks may have to break out their
protractors to decide where to eat in Silverdale.
Mike Hale, founder of Seattle’s Hale’s Ales, said
nothing’s been set in stone, but the options for a restaurant and
brewery in Kitsap County are pointing to Silverdale. He hopes to
open by next winter.
(I wrote about the initial plans a while
back.)
So, would that mean war with perennial local hot spot Silver City
Restaurant and Brewery?
Not necessarily, Hale said, offering an explanation
thusly:Imagine a Friday night, and all the people waiting in the
lobbies of Silverdale’s eateries, including Silver City. Then
imagine all the other folks hungering for a reasonably-priced meal
and good beer who stayed at home to avoid the crowds. There’s
enough people there to make things interesting, and make it work as
a business.
Hale and I sat down for a brief chat Wednesday night at The
Manette in Bremerton, where he was doing a promo for his beers,
including a new imperial stout. (More on that later.)
If he were to come to Kitsap, which the Suquamish resident has
been looking into for a while, he hopes to open a restaurant and
brewery about the same size as Silver City.
The bulk of production would remain at the Fremont/Ballard area
brewery.
Brewing over here would allow Hale’s brewers to stretch their
legs into wilder territories yonder.
“It’s where we can do the experimental beers comfortably,” he
said.
The bulk of production for the Hale’s mainstays would be in
Seattle, a much larger operation, with the seasonal and
experimental stuff largely happening over here.
Hale said he’s gotten interest from landowners and landlords in
Poulsbo, Suquamish and Port Orchard, but not a ton from Bremerton,
he said.
“They would come to Bremerton, too,” he said. “But they’re
already in Silverdale.”
They being customers.
THE NEW BEER
Speaking of
experimental beers, Hale was pouring malty samples of a new beer,
Pikop Andropov’s Rushin’ Imperial Stout.
Heavy on the roasted malts and black as night, the ale’s dark
hue sends an ALL CAPS telegraph to your taste buds.
Unlike some other imperial stouts, which can either exhibit
syrupy or overly-astringent characteristics (Did I mention it’s not
uncommon for an imperial stout’s ABV to creep into double
digits..before the decimal.), Hale’s is relatively smooth. That
doesn’t mean one-dimensional.
“You don’t get it in the first sip,” Hale said. “You have to
work through it.”
He likened it to a poem. You don’t get it on the first read.
At first the roasted malt character comes through, with a
well-rounded mouth feel. A hint of smoke from its aging in oak
barrels pokes its head in, too.
After a few more sips, you start to pick out more of the fruity
undertones. I was getting dark stone fruits. Cherries, raspberries,
etc. As always, brown sugar and molasses flavors blanket the
palette.
Suggested serving temp is 55 degrees, which may surprise those
of you who feel beer should be just north of 0 Kelvin. When beer
actually tastes good, let it warm up. Please. Cold numbs your
tastebuds.
I genuinely liked it, but still have a soft spot for another
mega-stout, the Stone Imperial Russian Stout.
If you get your hands on the Pikop and want a little more oomph
from the folks at Hale’s, just wait a few months. Hale said they’re
reserving a portion of this beer to be aged six months in an old
whiskey barrel.
I might have to give that one a shot, too…
– Derek Sheppard
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