Tomatoes are such a versatile
fruit of the vine. It’s the tomatoes high acidity that really sets
it apart from the rest of the vegetable crops. With tomatoes, I
like reds with equal parts acidity, fruit and tannins. Those
favored reds to have with tomatoes all have their roots in Italy,
Barbera, Chianti and Sangiovese. 
Chianti is a blended wine
with a preponderance of Sangiovese. Sangiovese is Italy’s most
widely planted grape with vineyards in Tuscany being the most
heavily planted to the grape. There you can drink Chianti,
Brunello, Vino Nobile and Super Tuscans, all made with
Sangiovese.
But with tomatoes, I reach
more towards Barbera. Second only to Sangiovese in production and
versatility, it’s naturally high in acidity so it does very well in
warmer climates, like Italy, California and Eastern
Washington.
Barbera reaches its zenith in
the Piedmont region where you can find labels stating Barbera
d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba. It also does best on the well-drained,
limestone slopes of Asti and Alba in northwestern
Italy.
Even the warmer sites in
Eastern Washington, Sonoma Valley and the Sierra Foothills produce
some fantastic Barberas. This acidity complements the fruit flavors
and the wines are ripe, bright and tangy, a perfect match for Ann
Vogel’s Tomato Tarte
Tatin.
Barbera is a dark-skinned
variety found in several Italian wine regions, including its native
Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, Puglia, Campania, Sicily and Sardinia.
Barbera can be both on its own or blended, usually with that other
Piedmonte grape, Nebbiolo.
Like so many Italian
grape varieties, Barbera has an interesting history. It was
recorded in the cathedral of Casale Monferrato archives where
leased vineyards were planted to Barbera between 1246 and 1277.
Barbera was well regarded for its “rustic yet generous”
character.
It was a favorite among
army officers, who considered the wine a “sincere companion” and
helped them maintain their courage in battle. Also cited in a
Società Agraria di Torino document in 1798, there you can read the
first definitive list of Piedmont’s grape varieties.
This varietal’s bright
and cooperative nature has made it equally popular in California.
Barbera is the sixth most planted red grape in California, but is
rarely bottled alone. Loved for its color and acidity, Barbera is
usually blended to tame other varietals into better
balance.
So where to start with Barbera?
I would highly recommend Italy’s La Spinetta Barbera
d’Alba or d’Asti, Prunotto Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso, Sandrone
Barbera d’Alba, Seghesio Barbera d’Alba, Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre
Vigne or d’Asti, or Voerzio Barbera d’Alba.
Early California planters and
producers of Barbera were Martini, Seghesio, and Sebastiani.
Sebastiani was winning awards for his Barbera in the
1930s.
But in this century, I’d
choose a Montevina
Amador Barbera, Sobon Estate Amador Barbera, Seghesio Alexander
Valley Barbera, Shenandoah Sierra Foothills Reserve Barbera or
Renwood Amador County Barbera.
Cavu Cellars Barbera Rose,
Facelli, Maryhill Winery, Stomani
Cellars, and Wind Rose Cellars all produce Barberas
from Washington grown grapes.
Bon Apetito!
