Mary writes:
In northwestern Italy’s Piedmonte region, Barbera is the
everyday wine for family dinners. Barbera is the second-most
planted red grape in Italy. It’s planted in other parts of the
world also, most notably California where Italian immigrants
settled, but other parts of the globe too.
Inside Piedmonte, Alba, Asti and Monferrato are the DOC or DOCG
regions for Barbera. In the DOCG region of Alba, for some of the
best Barolos, the Nebbiolo grape gets the best vineyard sites.
Barbera is relegated to the leftover vineyards. This was the
natural order for Piedmonte, where Barolo is king with wines that
are aged and sold for big bucks — Barbera is the family-friendly
dinner wine.
I first tasted the memorable Cigliuiti Barbera d’Alba one hot
Northwest summer day many years ago. It became my summer wine, the
wine to drink with the tomatoes fresh from the garden. Barbera is
gorgeous with juicy red fruits and herbs and natural, lively
acidity even in hot climates. For me, it was synergistic with
tomatoes. Tomatoes dressed with a little chopped onion, balsamic
vinegar, a shave of Fontina and a drizzle of olive oil is my choice
for an accompaniment to the wine.
My great affection for Barbera led to Barbera being introduced
to the “Blind Wine Group” I formed. The group recently blind tasted
eight Barberas, seven from Alba and one from Washington.
Here’s how it works: Everyone brings a bottle of Barbera and a
plate of appetizers. The host brings two of the same Barbera.
Bottles are brown bagged, numbered and served. Tasters are looking
for the duplicate wine.
The structure of Barbera comes from its crisp acidity, which
keeps it fresh and cuts through rich fatty foods. If the acidity is
out of whack, Barbera can be harsh. But given a tomato, the wine is
perfect.
Wines we tasted are as follows:
- Michele Reverditto Barbera d’Alba 2010: very
balanced, aromatic with cherry, cedar; medium-full bodied, tart
cherry flavors with a pleasant bitter herb finish.
- Bricco del Tempo d’Alba 2010 DOC: Lots of
fruit on the nose, great taste of bright red fruits with an earthy
finish.
- Viberti Bricco Airolia d’Alba Superiore 2010:
Bricco is Italian for hilltop where this vineyard is situated.
Grape and almond aromas with grapey and cherry flavors that finish
long and smoothly.
- Maccario DOCG Barbera d’Alba 2011: Dark ruby
color with a red fruit based aroma with a floral hint. It’s smooth
with black cherry and vanilla flavors. 13.5 percent alcohol.
- Renato Ratti DOCG Barbera d’Alba 2010: Rich in
body and in color, warm and robust, pleasantly tart. Spent
six months in French oak barriques which concentrates the
flavors.
- Podere Ruggere Corsini Barbera d’Alba 2010:
Juicy, rich, purple red with bright plum flavors in a mouth-filling
style. Very lively acidity.
- Maryhill Columbia Valley Barbera 2008: Vanilla
and spice balance the tart cherry, red berry fruit flavors. Full
bodied with a smooth finish.
- Maccario DOCG Barbera d’Alba 2011: Aromas of
cherries and violets, velvety mouthfeel, concentrated bright cherry
and blueberry flavors.
The favorite of the tasters was the second bottle of Maccario
with the Reverditto a point behind. Four of us picked the duplicate
wines, including yours truly.
Other cheeses to try with fresh tomatoes and a glass of Barbera
would be Cambozola made from cow’s milk that’s a blue veined
soft-ripened triple cream cheese.
Gorgonzola is the classic Italian blue veined cheese, made from
unskimmed cow’s milk. The crumbly texture and tang sing with the
fresh tomatoes.
Share on Facebook