Category Archives: Sparkling Wine

Top Summertime Wines

Summer encourages lots of time outdoors, paddling around, beach walking, biking and hiking, dining al fresco, grilling and gardening. Menus feature lighter fare. Summer’s bounty, from our gardens or the farmer’s market, is beckoning, and so is that chilled, refreshing bottle of wine.

This time of year, no wine is more refreshing than a Vinho Verde. That’s Portuguese for “green wine” which refers to its age when its sold rather than the color. It’s light, slightly sparkling and acidic. They are dry, low alcohol, charming hot weather wines. Best with fried calamari, steamed clams, crab cakes, grilled fish or seafood stews.

Whether it’s by itself or with its traditional blending partner Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc is the best choice for vegetarian fare or seafood. This light to medium bodied wine has crisp acidity, the stuff that makes wine refreshing. The citrus and herbal notes are a perfect choice for the grilled fish, oysters on the half shell, sautéed zucchini, salad of all types or roasted red peppers and goat cheese.

Chinook Winery’s Sauvignon Blanc – a longtime favorite – is fermented at cool temperatures to retain the floral and fruity aromas. The perfect balance of body and acidity, it is a serious contender for grilled fish with a citrus glaze and corn on the cob.

Frichette 2014 Semillon is elegant with pear and honeydew flavors, a medium body and a refreshing crispness. Grilled pork chops with sautéed apples or grilled peaches, bouillabaisse or paella would be my pick.

Maryhill’s 2013 Celilo Vineyards Gewurztraminer has that very aromatic spicy nose. It’s a dry wine with a touch of residual sugar. Spicy Asian dishes like Pad Thai, anything with ginger or smoked cheeses are the heavenly match here.

The ever popular Fetzer Monterey Gewurztraminer is all fruit and spice with the right amount of acidity and another Asian cuisine partner. Ceviche is also a winner with this wine.

Pinot Noir is known to have been cultivated in Burgundy, France for about 2,000 years. Occasionally a gene drops out and the grape mutates. The loss of color in the skin of the mutated grapes is where Pinot Gris or Grigio comes in. Noir is French for black and gris or grigio translated means grey.

Pinot Grigio is a light to medium bodied white best drunk young. Its best foodmates are chicken, fish, mussels, pork chops and following in the Italian tradition, antipasto.

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2014 Pinot Gris is made by lightly pressing the grapes rather than crushing them.  It’s cold fermented in stainless steel to highlight the Pinot Gris flavors and underwent sur-lee aging. This is an ideal picnic wine.

The other Italian summer grape is Prosecco also perfect with antipasto. The beautiful thing about Prosecco is the elegance and aromatics. From the hills surrounding the Veneto region in Italy, Prosecco is a summertime quaff. Gently pressed grapes are fermented in stainless steel produce a dry sparkling wine with lemon, apple and pear with high acid that is crisp and invigorating. Fresh fruit and cheese on the patio, anyone?

Speaking of sparkling wines, you must try, if you haven’t already, Treveri Cellars. This Wapato Winery makes premium sparkling wines from a wide array of grapes. From the traditional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to Riesling, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, and even Syrah.  These wines, served at the state department dinners several times, are aged on average 24 months. The Rosé is my favorite with big strawberry and bready flavors and a delightful finish.

Rosés are the red wine lover’s summer wine. The color and the weight of a red wine comes from the skins of the red grapes. For a red, the skins are left in contact with the fermenting juice for an extended period. For a Rosé, separating the juice from the skins after a brief time together means that the color and tannic acid are reduced. Without the tannic acid, the wine becomes chillable and a very refreshing summer wine. There are many shades available today from very pale to just about red.

These wines can be and are made from a variety of grapes such as Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot, and Zinfandel.  As Julia Child’s once said, “Rosés can be served with anything.”

Talking about Pinot Noir without mentioning Oregon would signal the wine police so let me introduce you to a French winemaker’s Rosé from the Willamette Valley.  Domaine Loubejac Pinot Noir Rosé with bright aromas and flavors of strawberries and raspberries with a lingering finish. An impressive match with grilled salmon, shrimp or chicken topped with a cherry or raspberry sauce or vinaigrette.

Palencia Wine Company out of Walla Walla has a delicious 2015 Pinot Noir Rosé from the Ancient Lakes AVA. Vino la Monarcha is a beautiful rose colored wine made with juicy cherry and raspberry aromas and flavors and crisp acidity.

I really liked the balance of the Terra Blanca 2015 Rosé. A blend of 64% Sangiovese and 36% Cab Franc, with lighter red fruit flavors and zippy freshness. Aged parmesan, gouda, or gorgonzola with olives, crusty bread would work for a picnic at the park or on the beach.

Owen Roe makes a tongue-in- cheekiness Super Tuscan Rosé from Red Willow Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet. This light bodied wine has very melony flavors and a dry finish.  Grilled pizza with your favorite toppings is a great match.

Cool and refreshing, familiar or undiscovered, that’s the ticket for a summer sipper.

 

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Sparkling Wines for the Holidays

There are many occasions that can easily be made more festive with sparkling wine. With the holidays upon us, nothing says celebrate like the pop of a cork on a bottle of bubbly. It’s the universal signal for the beginning of fun.

Sparkling wines — whether from France, Italy or the U.S. — are different from Riesling, Cabernet or Chardonnay because they, like beer and sparkling cider, go through a second fermentation.

In the first fermentation – the one that makes the alcohol – gases produced by the yeast eating the sugars escape, creating alcohol. The second fermentation traps the gases in the bottle, making tiny bubbles.

This type of fermentation occurs in a bottle with a very tight cap. Since the gasses can’t escape the bottle, voila! The wine sparkles. In the Champagne region, this process is known around the world as Méthode Champenoise. The “Champagne Method” involves fermenting, blending, bottling, secondary fermentation, en tirage, riddling and dosage.

Sparkling wine is the perfect wine. Not only does it make the occasion special, it is incredibly versatile with food. Yes, every food you can plate up or even enjoy out of a bag. Fish and chips, check! Oysters, check! French onion soup, check! Popcorn, check! Smoked salmon, check! Mushu Pork, check! Sushi, check! Turkey, check! Eggs Benedict, check!

One reason for this is sparkling wine grapes are typically harvested weeks before still wine grapes. The result of that early harvest is the grape sugars aren’t as high and the acidity level is up there. Typically, wines with high acidity will pair perfectly with more foods than wines that have little acidity.

Sparkling wines are made all over the world, normally in the cooler parts of the globe. The most famous is Champagne in northern France, second is Prosecco from a region in northern Italy and third is Cava, from predominantly northern Spain. In the New World, many sparkling wines follow the Méthode Champenoise.

Each Old World region makes its sparkling wines from grapes that are indigenous to the region. In Champagne, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are allowed. In Prosecco, the Glera grape can be blended with only 15% of other white grapes. Cavas are traditionally a blend of Parellada, Macabeo and Xarel-lo grapes. Other grapes allowed are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Garnacha.

Outside of Champagne, other French sparkling wines are called Crémant and made with the grapes of the region. In Limoux, Macabeo, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay grapes; in the Alsace, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc; and in Burgundy, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

When considering your ideal sparkling wine, it helps to understand that sparkling wine is a blended wine. It could be a blend of several years’ harvests, which would make it a non-vintage. Or it could be Méthode Traditionelle, meaning a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Here are some terms you may see on labels:

Blanc de Blancs: White of whites — traditionally all Chardonnay grapes

Blanc de Noir: White of dark — traditionally a white bubbly made from Pinot Noir grapes

Style is determined by the amount of sugar in the dosage. Dosage is the final liquid addition used to top up the Méthode Champenoise bottles and determines how sweet or how dry the contents are.

  • Brut Zero ( 0 – very dry)
  • Extra brut (less than 6 — very dry)
  • Brut (less than 15 — dry)
  • Extra dry (12-20 — not so dry)
  • Sec (17-35 — slightly sweet)
  • Demi-sec (33-50 — rather sweet)
  • Doux (more than 50 – very sweet)

Some favorite sparkling wines for all occasions in the $10-$20 range:

Chateau Ste. Michelle brut Rose’ is a beautiful rose-colored, dry wine with a hint of residual sugar on the finish. The generous fruit and sweet finish would pair well with crab, jalapeño and artichoke dip or General Tso’s chicken.

Founded in 1984, Gruet Winery specializes in Méthode Champenoise sparkling wines in the mountains in New Mexico. The non-vintage Brut, a blend of 75% Chardonnay with the balance in Pinot Noir, is crisp, yeasty and has a long finish. Pair it with popcorn tossed with butter and a hint of truffle oil.

Treveri Cellars Sparkling Gewürztraminer from Yakima Valley is a delightful, aromatic non-vintage wine with a dosage of 35g/L (demi-sec) with a balancing acidity of 7.5g/L. Perfect with fried seafood on a bed of spicy Asian slaw.

Jaume Serra Cristalino brut Cava is a traditional blend of the Spanish grapes — Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel lo. This is mimosa material. Two parts Cristalino one part your juice of choice: orange, pomegranate, blackberry, you get the idea. Then pair it up with a sweeter breakfast of waffles with fresh blueberries or a Dutch baby.

In 1531, Benedictine monks perfected sparkling wine in a little known region called Limoux in southern France. Saint-Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux has delicate apple flavors and tiny bubbles. A blend of Mauzac, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, its creamy texture begs a dish of fettuccini alfredo or a mound of garlic mashed potatoes with lots of butter.

There are many legendary figures surrounding the world’s most glamorous wine. Dom Perignon comes to mind as does Bond, James Bond who enjoyed a tipple of Bollinger when not sipping something shaken, not stirred.

It’s hard not to admire the legendary Madame Lily Bollinger (1899-1997), who would make her daily inspection of her vineyards by bicycle. Her outfit — hat, heels and skirt. In 1955, when asked when she enjoyed a glass of Bollinger, she replied: “I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch the stuff — unless I’m thirsty.”

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The State of Washington Wines 2019

I had a marvelous time at the Taste Washington Grand Tastings. Imagine two days of 235+ possibilities.

And I was amused with this year’s theme, Must. Taste. Everything. Not possible in the 4 or 5 hours each of the two days. Just not possible but I gave it the old college try.

Saturday, was very crowded but I managed to taste almost 40 wines. Sunday, was more laid back and I was able to taste – and spit – almost 54 wines. The plan was to taste the top tier, I.e. expensive, wines and then go on to reds. Sunday was to be dedicated to whites. I was semi-successful with the plan but did get distracted by winemakers, wine and friends. Here are my impressions to help guide your future wine purchases.

Best wine overall: Barnard Griffin Centurion 2016 Sagemoor Vineyards. So well knit, as close to as perfect a wine as you can sip. One barrel made. Thanks for sharing. $150.

Second place: Cadence Spring Valley Vineyards 1998 Red, an amazing 21-year-old. Youthful in appearance, wonderful aromas and very delightful to experience. Thanks for sharing. n/a

Third place: Cascade Cliffs Blood Red Columbia Valley 2017 Barbera, Bob Lorkowski has been making this wine for 20 years and it shows. Layered, juicy, rich, you need to try this wine. It’s amazing. $85.

And in no particular order, I would highly recommend to you:

Laurelhurst 2014 Walla Walla Petite Verdot – WOW! a dense, rich wine with so many anthocyanins it strains your glass. Relocated in the Georgetown district of Seattle, many small lot fermentations of great wines are made by the dedicated winemaking team of Greg Smallwood and Dave Halbgewachs. $36.

On the Kitsap Peninsula, Bainbridge Island’s Eagle Harbor 2015 Old Vine Cabernet from Kiona Vineyards on Red Mountain. This award winning winery produced this polished wine from Red Mountain’s first vineyard. $60.

Karma Vineyards, overlooking Lake Chelan, produced two fabulous méthode champenoise sparkling wines. The finely bubbled 2014 Estate Pink Pinot Noir and the 2013 Brut Chardonnay with hints of apple and bread dough. $50 and $70.

Avennia 2016 Justine Red Rhone is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre that will be a great addition to any cellar. The first graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program, Chris Peterson was awarded a Winemaker of the Year in 2017. Excellent choice. $40.

A custom crush, custom bottling and canning facility intrigued me. Finding myself in front of Cascadian Outfitters booth, I decided to find out what Goose Ridge was all about and have a sip of Cascadian Outfitters can o’ red while sorting out their relationship.

I have enjoyed many bottles of one of Goose Ridge’s five wine labels, Tall Sage. What drew me to that wine was the back label. “Arvid Monson developed his first vineyard on the advice of Dr. Walter Clore, known as the father of Washington’s wine industry: ‘Find a tall sage and you have a place that will sustain superior grape vines.’ A tall sage is one that develops deep tap roots … This release is our tribute to a man of great stature, the founder of Goose Ridge Estate Vineyards.”

Cascadian Outfitters #Adventureinacan comes in three flavors, Chardonnay, rose, and red blend. Estate wine in a can for kayaking, backpacking or biking to the next winery. A six pack is $30.

Their remarkable 2,200-acre estate vineyard is located on a gentle slope adjacent to the Red Mountain AVA. Their five labels are Goose Ridge Estate, g3, Stonecap, Tall Sage and Cascadian Outfitters.  All come from this vineyard and Goose Ridge also sells grapes to other wineries.

Goose Ridge Estate 2015 Syrah is beautiful, everything you expect in a Syrah. The long, smooth finish comes from 22 months in French and American barrels, some new but most neutral. $38.

Kerloo 2014 Upland Vineyards on Snipes Mountain Grenache is all Grenache whole-cluster fermented and concrete aged. This old Snipes Mountain AVA vineyard dates back to the early 1900’s and is extremely warm and rocky. Pump-overs and punch-downs during fermentation extract color and texture for a beautifully balanced wine with great aromatics. A stunning wine for $40.

In the spring of 1997, Chandler Reach owners Len and Lenita Parris, traveled to Tuscany and stayed in a beautiful villa. Inspired, they created a little slice of Tuscany in Yakima. Their signature red, Monte Regalo Estate 2015 Red Bordeaux is a brilliant blend from the winemaker’s block of Cab, Merlot and Cab Franc. $30.

The Parris Estate Reserve 2015 Yakima Cab Franc is fermented in small, open top fermenters and then cellared for 24 months in new and neutral French oak.  Usually a right-bank blending grape, this standalone version is outstanding. $46.

Many great wineries start in a garage. Associated Vintners, now known as Columbia Winery,  is one fine example of an early Seattle garage winery consisting of a group of University of Washington faculty members.

Ducleaux Cellars started out in their Kent garage. Today, this small family winery is making great wines from an estate vineyard and winery now located in The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, a sub-AVA of Walla Walla.

Ducleaux Cellars’ Chief Tasting Officer, Toby Turlay, was pouring their 2016 Ducleaux Cellars Anarchy. Mostly Syrah with a splash of Mourvedre, this wonderfully balanced wine from the Ancient Lakes AVA is highly aromatic and tasty! $29.

Brook & Bull Cellars is Ashley Trout’s latest venture. A talented winemaker who has produced wine in both Walla Walla Valley and Argentina. The first time I had her wines, it was the Torrontes grape from Agentina where she would work the March harvest.

Brook and Bull Cellars 2016 Columbia Valley Petite Verdot is exquisite. Another Bordeaux grape that is usually blended, this big, rich wine is stuffed with layers of flavors that make you want another taste and then another. $38.

There’s more but not today. In the meantime, save the date for the next Taste Washington, March 2020. Cheers!

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Thanksgiving Dinner Wines

The key ingredient of any feast is the wine. When it comes to Thanksgiving’s contrasting fare, I prefer the shotgun approach. With so many different flavors on one plate, selecting wines to partner up with all those flavors is made stress-free by following this methodology.

With various enjoyable wines and several glasses lined up, allows you to try the wines side by side with each mouthful of the roasted turkey with sausage and onion dressing, tart cranberries, earthy Brussel sprouts, sweet potatoes and even green beans drowning in cream of mushroom soup topped with crunchy onions.

Sparkling wine is the classic for all holiday celebrations. They’re impressive because they’re celebratory and, as an added bonus, they pair well to most any dish. The crisp effervescence is perfect with fried, hearty or rich dishes and the usual assorted appetizers from cheese and crackers to crab claws with lemon and butter or seafood sauce.

For the budget minded, a Spanish Cava such as Cristalino Rosé or Domaine Ste Michelle brut or Rosé would be perfect. Washington’s Treveri Cellars produces some of the state’s best sparklers. I highly recommend their Blanc de Noirs which is 100% Pinot Noir and sells for around $20. It’s the perfect hostess gift, too.

Some say stuffing, others do dressing. Call it what you will, it isn’t Thanksgiving without it. It can be cornbread or dry bread, stuffed with sage and sausage or dressed with oysters or mushrooms. Whatever recipe you favor, match the strongest flavor to your favorite wine.

For instance, the weight and flavors of a new world Chardonnay would be perfect with a cornbread dressing. From Monterey, J. Lohr Riverstone Arroyo Seco Chardonnay has exquisite balance and lush tropical and stone fruits. Out of Walla Walla, Gard Vintners Freyja, a blend of two thirds Viognier and a third Roussanne, would also pair beautifully.

For oyster stuffing, go with a Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc is bright with acidity and citrus flavors. It also has an herbaceous quality making it a perfect partner with vegetables like Brussel sprouts or green beans.

The Columbia Winery Stratos White is an unusual but beautiful blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Crisp, citrusy with a floral nose, this is a foodie wine. Another perfect partner is the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from Greg Norman. Bright with acidity and liberal with citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Chateau Pajzos hails from Hungary and is a delicious dry white made from the Tokaji’s Furmint grape similar to Sauvignon Blanc but milder in flavor.

Sage and sausage work well with most any smooth medium bodied red. From Boushey Vineyards, Syncline’s Carignane Grenache is medium bodied, earthy red with hints of mushrooms. Two Vintners Columbia Valley Syrah is a winner, too. Jammy with raspberries and a little bit of dirt to balance all that fruit.

From Tuscany, Neil Empson’s Monte Antico is sure to please many. This IGT is predominantly Sangiovese with a bit of Cabernet and a dollop of Merlot.

Whether it’s deep fried, roasted, grilled or smoked, turkey with wine is a no-brainer. Most every wine will shine with turkey. The elegant Pinot Noir works well with turkey, especially if there is a mushroom gravy and stuffing involved.

My absolute favorite Pinot Noirs – this year – are Rain Dance Vineyards, Stoller Family Estates and Knudsen Vineyards, all from Oregon’s Dundee Hills and Chehalem Mountains AVAs. The 2015 Rain Dance Vineyards Pinot Noir is heavenly with its rich aromatics and well balanced red fruit and mineral flavors.

Stoller Family Estates Pinot Noir went through whole berry fermentation which brings out the bright red fruits of the grape and produces silky tannins. Knudsen Vineyards has a long and storied history in Oregon. The vineyards are planted to several clones of Pinot Noir that mature into elegant, rich wines.

An unoaked Chardonnay, a dry Alsatian Pinot Blanc or Gewürztraminer would be in the lineup too. One of my most memorable finds this year was the Chehalem Three Vineyard Pinot Gris. The amazing Pinot Gris Reserve is a rich, round Alsatian style that is barrel fermented in neutral oak. It is luscious.

Cranberry is probably the tangiest flavor and toughest to match. But with a Beaujolais Nouveau, the tart sweet flavors of cranberries works with this wine that is so full of fruit itself. Beaujolais Nouveau also plays well with turkey and stuffing. Beaujolais Nouveau is the first wine of the vintage and is always released the third Thursday of November – just in time for Thanksgiving.

Another wine that is similar to a Beaujolais, comes from Sailor Cellars in Port Townsend. Their estate vineyards are planted to Marechal Foch, a hybrid grape that is a cross of a cross. Unusual for its red flesh, this wine has the stuffing to grace your Thanksgiving table.

Sweet potatoes have another flavor realm altogether. They require a little more thought depending on if it’s the sweet or savory version. If you’re still doing the broiled marshmallow topping, go with an Oloroso sherry; it’s sweetness will match the sweetness of the dish.

Otherwise, Viognier or a dry Gewürztraminer will make your mouth smile with the savory styles of the sweet potatoes. One memorable sweet potato dish was baked with dried apricots. It was great with a Monchof Riesling Kabinet.

When it’s time for dessert, remember wines need to be sweeter than the pie. In my family, there were two kinds of pie my father would bake. ‘Tis Mince (mincemeat) and tainince (everything else). “TM” would be pricked into the top of every pie crust to avoid confusion.

Late harvest Riesling or an ice cider shines with apple pie with good reason. Tawny port with its nutty, caramel flavors would be my choice with pumpkin or pecan pie. Mincemeat pies are intensely flavored with candied orange and lemon peels, raisins, apples and a myriad of spices. With ‘tis mince, an Oloroso or even a Pedro Ximénez would be the perfect match.

Hoping your holidays are the best ever. Cheers!

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Chilling with Exotic Grapes

With this heat wave, a well-chilled wine is very welcome. But sometimes at an impromptu get together, you’ve inadvertently chatted through the only cold one. Emergency measures are called for. Do you throw a bottle in the freezer, drink it warm or resort to ice cubes? What’s the quickest way to chill wine?

The answer, my friends, is freezers are slow, freezer wine jackets are better but a bucket full of ice, water and plenty of salt will get you there in a New York minute. Or even quicker and less messy are ice cubes in the glass.

Is it a faux pas to put ice cubes in your wine? Many wine gurus believe that putting ice cubes in your wine glass is a mortal sin. In an article I recently read, putting ice cubes into wine was cited as the most annoying customer habit by many sommeliers because unless you’re drinking super-fast, which is even more annoying, the ice melts and dilutes the flavors.

And yet, all over France, the holy grail for wine, a common restaurant practice is to serve a pitcher of water and glass of wine with lunch. The water is to dilute your wine to your liking and still function after lunch. In some warmer climate countries (think Greece), it’s common to be offered ice when served a white or rosé at those outdoor cafes.

Even the producer of Dom Perignon has released a wine to be served on ice. Moët y Chandon’s Ice Impérial Rosé has instructions on how much ice to use. Wonder how hard that is for some of those sommeliers to swallow?

I like the panache of putting frozen peach slices or grapes in your wine glass. They’ll chill the wine without diluting it and you’ll get the added benefit of a little extra flavor and fiber in your wine diet.

Trendy canned wines have the added benefit of being quicker and easier to chill. They have the convenience of a cheap American lager and make hiking and biking less strenuous. You can chill it in the creek without fear of breaking the only wine you hauled up countless switchbacks for hours.

My belief is you can do whatever you want to your wine as long as it makes you happy. That, after all, is wine’s purpose in life.

Here are some recently tasted and highly recommended refreshing summer wines (most under $20) to be served with or without ice cubes:

A sparkling or slightly sparkling – frizzante in Italian – is always refreshing. At the Red, White and Brews awards one of my favorites, Treveri Cellars, was pouring their Blanc de Blanc, Blanc de Noir and for those of you who like red wine, Syrah brut.

Another sparkling there was Den Hoed Wine Estates’s Proost Zero Dosage Blanc de Blancs. It was delicious. Zero dosage means the wine was topped up without the usual dosage of wine and sugar syrup that normally would happen after the plug of dead yeast cells is removed and before the final cork and bale are put on.

Proost (Cheers) is produced from Chardonnay grapes. The extended aging means complexity with aromas of minerals and brioche and flavors of citrus, toast and yeast. The winemaker is from Champagne, living in the mountains of New Mexico, making delightful bubblies.

Another New Mexican sparkling wine is Gruet Sauvage Blanc de Blancs. This is wonderfully refreshing, bone dry with green apple and lemon zest flavors and aromas. Take a bottle to your favorite sushi bar.

Vinho Verde is Portuguese, naturally spritzy with low alcohol (around 9%). It’s the ideal hot weather wine from a blend of several white grapes including Alvarinho and a handful of other grapes that produce a wine with flavors of limeade, green apple and citrus.

Other still, crisp, exotic white grapes that are enjoyed in sweltering regions around the globe are:

Picpoul is a French Languedoc grape known for its high acidity. It’s making a revival even in Washington state. Syncline Picpoul comes from the renowned Boushey Vineyard. Refreshing, complex with quenching acidity. Winemaker James Mantone did a whole cluster press of the grapes before racking into a stainless steel tank to age. Mantone was awarded 2018 Winemaker of the Year at the Red, White and Brews Awards.

Guardian Angel Sauvignon Blanc is gorgeous wine. It’s zippy, juicy and downright delicious. The grapes come from another renowned vineyard, Klipsun on Red Mountain. It’s fermented eight weeks in new French oak and then to stainless tanks. This juicy wine has a wonderful array of citrus with grapefruit, lemon zest, lemon curd and a hint of vanilla. Shrimp or Crab salad would be heaven with this wine.

Two Vintners 2015 Syrah received Best Red Wine of the Year at the Red, White and Brews Awards. Fortunately, the willingness to do unfashionable but delightful grapes brought us Two Vintners 2017 Grenache Blanc.  It’s an exotic white grape bright with acidity and brimming with citrus and melon fruit flavors. From the renowned Boushey and Olsen Vineyards with 12% Rousanne in this Rhone style blend.

Whoa! Gotta go. There’s a wine slushy in the making to rescue. Find more refreshing, cold wines including Rose’s and a few chillable reds to explore on the blog, Cheers to you Kitsap!

p.s. See you at the Kitsap Wine Festival August 11th?

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Where to Begin with so Many Wines?

I find the infinite variety of wine, beer, and spirits to be both overwhelming and an adventure. As I was taught while training for sprint distance marathons, the hardest part is getting started.

Take Taste Washington marathon for instance. When faced with the delightful dilemma of a roomful of wine, where do you begin? Are you the adventurous type? The loyal kind? Or the frugal approach?

At Taste Washington this year, there were over 200 wineries, each pouring three or four wines with the opportunity to taste approximately 700 wines if you attended both days. This does not cover the vineyard designated areas that were pouring a dozen or so wines. Or the wines at the Red and White event, Taste on the Farm or the seminars.

Taste Washington is overwhelming but an adventure I look forwards to each year. While pausing at a table to set down my wine glass and a small plate of Assagio’s bolognaise (so good) for a free hand to make notes, I shared a table with older couple. We chatted about which wines were our favorites and where to go next. They had gone to the big names, Betz, Mark Ryan and Long Shadows.

I talked with a friend of a friend after the event and he had pretty much followed the path of tried and true 90+ point wines. He also whined about too many unrated wines and he wasn’t willing to spend valuable tasting time researching so he stuck with the ones he knew.

There was a time that I’d head for the most expensive, the 90+ pointers and make that the plan. But that evolved to wineries that I read about but had never tried. This year, the plan progressed to wineries that were fermenting unusual grape varieties.

Choices included traditional Italian varieties such as Barbera, Nebbiolo, Primitivo, Sangiovese, and Dolcetto. French varieties were well represented by Auxerois, Carmenere, Chenin Blanc, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Lemberger, Mourvedre, Picpoul, Roussanne, Petite Verdot, and Petit Syrah.

German grapes that do well in the Puget Sound AVA were represented with the scarce Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine. Even more scarce are Albarino and Tempranillo, a white and a red that epitomize Spain. Scarcer still, Grüner Veltliner (Austria), Tannat (Uruguay) and a handful of Vermouths (Germany, Italy, France). There was a lot to taste, so where to start?

Custom frequently requires one should begin with a sparkling wine. And so I did. Karma Vineyards was pouring their Blanc de Noir, Blanc de Blanc and Pink sparkling wines. These were classically made – dry, crisp and really paired well with Blue C Sushi’s seared salmon bite with crème fraiche and the cider poached tuna salad with chickpea mayo from Capitol Cider.

The Barbera grape is from the Piedmonte region of Italy so that was an easy choice for me. Maryhill, MonteScarlatto and Cascade Cliffs were particular standouts. Cascade Cliffs and Maryhill are located along the Columbia River in the Columbia Gorge AVA which is dubbed “A world of wine in 40 miles.”

Cascade Cliffs has been making Barbera for a couple of decades and this 2016 was classic with the big black fruits and the high acidity the Barbera grape is prized for.

Cascade Cliffs has been making other Italian varieties, like a Tuscan Red that is a fabulous blend of Cab, Merlot and Sangiovese. They also make a Nebbiolo of Barolo and Barbaresco fame. Seattle’s Upsidedown Wine had a delicious Nebbiolo Rosé that would be great some hot summer day.

Maryhill as Winery of the Year for a number of years, made this 2015 with 18 months of barrel aging in 40% new French oak. It’s a mouthful yet smooth. My favorite pairing with Barbera is fresh sliced tomatoes splashed with balsamic and olive oil, fresh ground pepper, basil and a crusty, rustic bread.

The MonteScarlatto Vineyard at Red Mountain is a fairly new vineyard of 10 acres planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Barbera, Merlot, Malbec and Petite Verdot. They were pouring the 2013 Barbera which my Tasting Partner raved about.

Located in Woodinville, Martedi Winery also produces wine in the Italian tradition with a Sangiovese Rosé, a great spring and summer wine. They also have a Sangiovese and a great Nebbiolo.

Claar Cellars 2013 Sangiovese – the grape that made Chianti famous – was really nice, perfectly balanced strawberry and herb flavors. It spent 12 months on oak which probably accounts for the smoothness of the wine.

Vines from the original Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain were planted in the 1970s. Another 80 acres was planted twenty years later. This prestigious vineyard grows grapes for some of the top wineries of the state.

Grenache is widely planted in Spain where its known as Garnacha and is a large component in France’s Chateauneuf du Pape where it adds body and fruit to the wine. Woodinville’s Convergence 2013 Ciel du Cheval Grenache was a favorite from this prestigious vineyard. And then I ran across Ded Reckoning’s 2013 Ciel du Cheval Grenache.

Lots of Rhone type wines both red and white. Red could be a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Cinsault. Whites would be any combination of Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul. There are other grapes but I haven’t seen any Clairette Blanche or Bourboulenc, both white grapes.

With summer on the way, it’s time to be looking for Rosés and whites. Tranche Rosé is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Counoise. There were a handful of Grenache Blancs and a couple of Picpouls. These white grapes are the best summer wines. The Walls Vineyards in Walla Walla Grenache Blanc was easy drinking, Cairdeas and Callan had fabulous Grenache Blancs, crisp, fruity and minerals. Callan’s Picpoul was the white wine of choice at Taste. It was very, very good. Another Picpoul worth seeking out comes from Syncline in the Columbia Gorge AVA.

Woodinville’s Warr-king Winery and Seattle’s Latta Wines both have a Roussanne also worth seeking out and Lobo Hills Auxerrois was amazing. This white grape originates from the Alsace region of France.

Forgeron, Hedges and Stottle all made a white Rhone; Forgeron’s was a blend of 39 per cent Roussanne, 34 Viognier and the remainder Grenache Blanc. Hedges blend is 75 per cent Marsanne and the rest Roussanne. The wine was full-bodied, rich and viscous. Stottle’s was a blend of 78 per cent Viognier and the balance in Roussanne. Viognier is a very aromatic grape and this was showed that off to the hilt.

Seattle’s Bartholomew 2015 Rattlesnake Hills Tannat the was an adventure with stunning results. Tannat is the ‘black wines’ of Madiran in southwest France, a fairly obscure wine region. Uruguay recently latched onto this varietal and is making some black wine of its own. And yes, inky black in color. This is a big, big wine.

One last winery with spectacular wines is Samson Winery in Whatcom County. They make the absolute best fruit wines. No words can describe their perfection. Try them and you too will be captivated!

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Getting a Wine Education

The wine bug bit me early on, if you consider a jug of Inglenook’s Navalle Burgundy wine. But, hey, you have to start somewhere.

This wine, in a convenient jug with a handle, was good for a week to 10 days. I had a glass of wine or two with dinner. A librarian job in the Loop and a studio apartment on the Northside dictated how much could be spent on wine. Inglenook was a decent quaff for the budget.

Not too long after that was my inaugural trip to Napa Valley. The historic Greystone Abbey home to the Christian Brothers, was the first of many tasting rooms visited and I fell in love with their Grey Riesling. My palette has changed over time with  many bottles consumed. Wine with family and friends – that’s the best of times.

Fast forward some years and I found myself the owner of a wine shop with many opportunities to learn, absorb and taste. The best way to learn about wine is to taste with other wine lovers, beginners and experts alike. And read. And taste some more. The more you taste and read, the more you learn and come to appreciate this tasty beveridge.

Wine festivals, tastings and conferences can give you a broader palette. One remarkable place to learn about Washington wines is the Walter Clore Center in Yakima. The center offers in-depth, Washington wine coverage with a focus on a different AVA each month.

They also offer special tastings such as a blind tasting of the Grüner Veltliner that demonstrates how differences in climate, vineyard practices, soil type and winemaking style can affect the way varietals express themselves.

On July 22 and July 29, the tasting theme is  Washington versus Spain. This comparative tasting covers classic varietals produced in Spain up against the same varietals grown and produced in Washington.

And on Sunday, July 30 at 2 p.m., you can enjoy 4 sparkling red wines, expertly paired with 4 small bites. They may be pushing some boundaries here, but then who here has had red wine with bubbles?  For more info, theclorecenter.org

The inaugural SOMM Summit held last week in Seattle was an around-the-world-in-80-wines tasting. This deliciously serious international wine and spirits educational conference at South Seattle Community College was a wonderful gathering of sommeliers, Masters of Wine, stewards and other wine geeks. We listened, tasted, talked and learned more about the world of wine and spirits.

Dr. Kevin Pogue, Professor of Geology at Whitman College, took us through the cataclysmic, historic journey that shaped Washington State’s soils. Following this, Tim Donahue, Director of Winemaking at College Cellars talked about the winemaker’s influence with lots of emphasis on anthocyanins, catchins, pH and other scientific mumbo jumbo, which he explained using Legos. Yep, it actually worked — for me anyway.

We took a trip through the sparkling wines of South Africa, indulged in a Quilceda Creek Retrospective, sipped Napa Valley wines from the valley floor and above, tasted eight decades of Port, a vertical of Seven Hills, and the exotic Xinomavro grape of Greece.

Closer to home, eight wonderful Washington Syrahs stained our teeth purple and eight crisp whites from British Columbia turned the teeth white again. There were eight decades of Kopke Colheita Portos, three centuries of Remy Martin and the debut of Bodegas Lustau’s Sherry Ambassador Certification course. This was an amazing forum to learn in depth details.

Oregon’s ¡Salud! is patterned after the most famous wine auction in the world, Hospices de Beaune. ¡Salud! is dedicated to providing healthcare services to Oregon vineyard workers and their families for the past 25 years. This is made possible by two major fundraisers.

The Pinot Noir Auction on November 10th and 11th is your only opportunity to access Oregon’s most exclusive Pinot Noir cuvées. It begins with a tasting and Big Board Auction at Ponzi Vineyards and concludes the next day at Domaine Serene with a Black Tie Optional Gala dinner.

They also have Summertime ¡Salud! which showcases great wines and gourmet cuisine on July 27th. Presented by Dukes Family Vineyards and hosted by Stoller Family Estate, you can mingle with winemakers while tasting wine and  sampling hors d’oeuvres, and then enjoy an upscale, family-style, alfresco dinner with some of Oregon’s best wines poured from impressive magnum bottles straight to your glass.

The  Kitsap Wine Festival on the Bremerton’s scenic waterfront is always a great way to celebrate food, wine, sunshine and blue skies. Sip wine and savor local restaurants’ culinary skills at this lovely maritime location.

Many Washington wineries and a sprinkling of other areas’ wines are available for tasting and purchasing. The ninth annual Kitsap Wine Festival will be Saturday, August 12 at Harborside Fountain Park.

Tickets start at $50, https://www.kitsapwinefestival.com.

Cheers to our next opportunity to learn more and enjoy more!

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Wines Under Pressure

Much like a bottle of bubbly, the holiday season contains a lot of pressure.bolly

However, sparkling wine has the kind of pressure I can live with! The result of a process that Dom Perignon spent years working on, bubbles are created by the yeast cozying up to the sugars in a closed environment. After this second fermentation, carbon dioxide is dissolved in the wine and held under pressure until the cork is popped. The wine is converted from still to sparkling and the occasion is transformed from ordinary to special.

Almost all sparkling wines have one thing in common. They go through two fermentations, one to make the alcohol and one to make the bubbles. The significant difference between the two fermentations is the first allows the gas to escape which produces the alcohol and the other traps the gases in the bottle and Voila! tiny bubbles!

Sparkling wines vary significantly. They can be white, pink or red. They can be bone dry (brut), sort of dry (extra brut), off dry (demi sec, semi secco) or sweet (doux or dolce). It can have varying degrees of alcohol (5.5% to 13%). The size and persistency of the bubbles and the foam differ significantly too.

The most famous sparkling wine comes from a region in northeast France called Champagne. Champagne produces about a tenth of the world’s sparkling wines. It’s the gold standard for sparkling wines.

According to the rules, Champagne must be made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. With the addition of a little yeast and a little sugar, the second fermentation occurs in the bottle with a crown cap to trap the gases. After remuage, where the dead yeast cells are shaken down into the neck of the bottle that are stored neck down in racks, the plugs of dead yeast cells are quickly expelled in a process called dégorgement. Disgorging involves little more than removing the crown cap and watching the plug fly, propelled by the pressure in the bottle.

The final steps are to top up with wine and a teaspoon to a quarter cup of simple syrup called dosage. The amount of sugar in the dosage determines whether the wine is brut, extra dry, demi sec or doux. The cork, bale and foil are put in place, the label pasted on and it is boxed for shipment.

Other regions in the world also make Champagne-like wines. California is an outpost for Champagne firms who have run out of space in Champagne. You may have seen or sipped Roederer Estate (Roederer), Chandon (Moet & Chandon), Domaine Carneros (Taittinger), Maison Duetz (Duetz), Piper Sonoma (Piper Heidsieck) and/or Mumm Napa (Mumm).

The presence of these French Champagne houses certainly sets a high standard, however, there are challenges. Champagne is a cooler region than many of the California AVAs.  Carneros and Anderson Valley tend to be cooler than say, Napa or the San Joaquin Valley. The French have adapted their methods to produce wonderful sparkling wines that are a quarter of the price of their French cousins.

The trick is to be cool like some parts of Oregon or harvest the grapes earlier than grapes used for a still wine. Oregon’s premier producer is Argyle winery in Dundee. And Soter Vineyards. Argyle has been growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir since 1987 and Soter started in California in the 1990s before moving to Carlton, Oregon. Both make wonderful Blanc de Blancs and Brut Rosé.

Washington has some great premium sparkling wines even without the presence of a “Champagne outpost”. One of my favorites is Treveri made by a couple who have been on the Washington wine scene since the early 80s.

Juergen Grieb was born and raised in Trier, Germany. He perfected his winemaking skills in the Ruwer Valley. After moving to the United States, he made wine for Langguth Winery in the early 80s.

The Juergen and Julie Grieb opened the doors to Treveri in 2010.  All their wines sparkle and are made from traditional French and German grape varietals. The grapes are picked early at around 19 brix, which is fairly typical when making a sparkling wine in a warmer region, any higher will result in too high an alcohol content with two fermentations.

They make a Blanc de Noir, Blanc de Blanc, a Rosé which is aged 24 months, and a Gewurztraminer which has extended tirage. It’s disgorged on demand to keep the product fresh. Like many of the Australian “Black Bubbles” Treveri Cellars’ Syrah is a deep red color from the Syrah.

They have a Bubble Club too. Members get 2 bubblies 3 times a year and complimentary glass of sparkling wine during release parties. This would be a perfect gift for that sparkling wine lover.

Other Washington sparklers include Domaine Michelle and Mountain Dome out of Spokane which produces sparkling wines in the “Méthode Champenoise” or the traditional method. Mountain Dome is a family operation in a geodesic dome in the shadow of Mount Spokane. They’ve been making bubbles since 1984.

Other regions to explore are Burgundy, Alsace, Spanish cavas, Prosecco from Italy, New York’s Finger Lakes and don’t forget those black bubbles from Australia.
cork wreath
Share a little sparkle with your family and friends this holiday season! Wishing you a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

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Here’s to You from Yakima Valley

One of the many highlights of a recent trip around Yakima Valley was a wonderful gourmet dinner experience that you should treat your dining partner and yourself to.

The Carousel Restaurant & Bistro is fine dining with French flair. Many of the recipes are from the French chef who originally opened the restaurant. The service was exquisite, the food was fabulous and with Casablanca playing on the wall during dinner, what could be better?  casablanca

The soundless black and white movie created an exotic atmosphere in the middle of this historic farming community.  During dinner, an amazing harp player entertained with familiar tunes.

But the fresh, local food and the wine pairing is the subject of this week’s story.  If it seems like I’m gushing, it’s probably because there’s lots to gush about!

For a dinner such as this, it’s important, almost mandatory, to have a dinner party partner, affectionately known as the DPP.  This ensures that you get to taste twice as much.  I would also like to mention that when in a French restaurant, I like to choose the more adventuresome Chef’s Choice dishes, especially if the DPP chooses the usual dishes.  boar w glasses

The first of five courses was an appetizer of Provence Boar Paté (mine) and crab cakes (the DPP).  I chose the paté made from slow simmered chicken and boar foie gras served with bacon jam. It was perfectly paired with a Domaine Collette Beaujolais Village 2014.

This ruby colored wine has a fruit bowl of flavors that include raspberry, red currant, and strawberry. The tannins were supple and beautifully balanced probably because of the whole bunch fermentation. This wine was a stunning match with the pate. Bravo to Greg, our maître d for the first of many thoughtful and spot on matches.

The DPP went for an appetizer of crab cakes on a  bed of arugula tossed with a lemon vinaigrette and brown butter capers. This too was expertly paired with a Dopff & Irion 2013 Riesling from an often overlooked area of France – Alsace. Here is an old world wine with place names not as prominent on the label as the grape names.

Constructed in 1549, the Chateau was originally owned by the Princes of Wurtemberg, who ruled over the city and its region for almost five centuries. Even a Chateau founded in the 16th century can survive 5 centuries because it embraces new technologies.

This particular bottling was done with screw caps! Gasp! Which surprised me in a pleasant sort of way. We all need to embrace screw caps especially with white wines which are typically enjoyed within a year of being bottled.

Considering a cork tree has to be at least 25 years old before its bark can be harvested, we need to rethink our carbon footprint. Even though its cork can then be stripped every 8 to 14 years after that first harvest, we should adapt as this old chateau has done.

My salad was great but the DPP salad was the show stopper. flambeeingCooked tableside, the salade d’epinards (spinach) flambé was a flaming success. The red wine vinaigrette was reduced and then the cooked bacon was added and flambéed with brandy to produce a two foot high torch.

Salads were served with the Cote de Bonneville DuBrul Vineyard Rosé. This 45 acre site produces small berries, small clusters, and low yields.  DuBrul Vineyard has been recognized as one of the top Washington State vineyards.

french onion soupThe soup course included the ubiquitousasparagus soup but very French, French onion soup and soupe de jour was made with fresh Yakima Valley asparagus. The former was accompanied by one of my all time favorite wines, Owen Roe Abbotts Table which is a blend of Zin, Sangiovese, Blaufrankish and Petite Verdot. The later with a Tour d’Auron 2013, a Bordeaux Supérieur blend of Cabernet, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petite Verdot. Another great match by Greg.

And for the pièce de résistance, the chosen entrées were duck and rabbit. The duck was seared and braised in a house red wine sauce with flambéed green peppercorns served over mushroom risotto.

It was complimented by the 2012 King Estate Oregon Pinot Noir, a very aromatic wine with wonderful cherry flavors with with hints of earthy mushrooms.

I chose another chef’s choice created with seasonal ingredients. When in a French restaurant, there are certain dishes guaranteed to be on the menu that you wouldn’t find on a Kitsap County menu, snails, frog’s legs and rabbit.

My dish turned out to be a delicious casserole of rabbit DSCN4305with house-made noodles, arugula and Asiago.  This dish was accompanied by a Kestral 2012 Cabernet. According to winemaker Flint Nelson, “This expansive wine boasts full body, ripe dense fruit flavors, with supple tannins and a lingering finish.” I would heartily agree.

mousseFor dessert, the choices were obvious. Chocolate mousse cake, pastry chef’s choice and a glass of Treveri Rosé. Chef’s choice was a raspberry tart with basil, lemon peel and an apricot glaze. raspberry tartBoth were pleasing to the eye as well as the palate. But I had to use stealth to get a bite of the cake. The sharing was over as the DPP only likes raspberries in his beer.

Treveri Cellars is a Yakima Valley winery that produces some really great handcrafted sparkling wines. This family operation is led by a husband and wife team, Jürgen Grieb, head winemaker with almost 30 years in the Washington wine industry and Julie Grieb, business manager.treveri rose

Treveri opened its doors just days before the Thanksgiving rush in 2010 with a mission to put Washington sparkling wine on the map.  In almost six years, Treveri has been served three times at White House State Department receptions, the James Beard Foundation in New York,  received a Double Gold at the Seattle Wine Awards, 90+ point scores from national 100 point scorers and voted one of the nation’s Top Ten Hottest Brands of 2014 by Wine Business Monthly. Mission accomplished!

Producing a wide array of sparkling wines, including non-traditional varieties such as Syrah, Riesling and Gewurztraminer, Treveri uses state of the art techniques to produce these beautiful bubblies.

This Rosé, aged an average of 24 months, was a gorgeous rose color with big strawberry flavors and a lingering finish. The wine was a perfect match with both desserts and a beautiful and so very continental way to end the evening.

This is a dining experience you deserve! Carousel Restaurant & Bistro, 25 North Front Street, Yakima. (509) 248-6720

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Weekly Wine Defined – Macabeo

This is a white grape variety widely planted (32,000 hectares) in Spain. If you’ve ever had a Cava from Catalonia, you’ve had Macabeo (traditionally blended with Xarel·lo and Parellada).   2_18876750_2

Macabeo is also the main grape in a white Rioja, where it goes by the name of Viura. Its natural acidity makes it a good candidate for the required extended ageing in Reserva and Gran Reserva wines. It is also found in the Valencia, Yecla and Jumilla regions of Spain.

In France, Maccabeu’s use is limited to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France where production has pushed it into eighth place in the most widely planted grape varieties of that country.

For the most part, Macabeo makes a crisp little white for early consumption. Macabeo can be crisp with citrus and floral highlights when picked early on and fermented and aged in stainless steel, but when harvested later and aged in oak, it takes on a heavier weight with honey and almond flavors. In Roussillon, late picked Macabeo is made into a vin doux naturel or fortified dessert wine.

It’s a favorite blending grape in both Spain and France. In Rioja, a small amount is allowed to be blended with Tempranillo and Garnacha. It’s popular in Rioja because the grape has high level of the antioxidant resveratrol. This is important where barrel ageing for six or more years is required for Reserva and Gran Reserva wines.

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