Category Archives: Italian Wine

The Many Wines from Italy’s Boot

Italy is big into wine. And the numbers testify to that: somewhere around 900 Italian grape varieties are grown in 1,949,000 acres of vineyards in the 20 wine regions. In 2018, 1,447,663 gallons of wine were produced or approximately 7,306,666 bottles.

They also have the biggest classification system with each regions’ own rules about which grapes can used, how much alcohol, how long it must be aged, what place name can be on the label and much more.

The first Italian system of classification was launched in 1963. Since then, modifications were made and grapes were added. The last modification in 2010 conforms with European Union wine regulations.

Italian wine categories from the bottom to the top:

Vini – generic wines

Vini Varietali – generic wines that are made from one authorized ‘international’ grape variety, i.e., Cabernet or Chardonnay.

IGP – wines with Protected Geographical Indication or IGT – Typical Geographical Indication. These are wines produced in a specific region, with specific regulations on varieties, viticulture and vinification and what can and cannot be printed on the label. i.e., Rosso de Toscano

DOP are wines with Protected Designation of Origin and includes two sub-categories: Controlled Designation of Origin (DOC) and Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin (DOCG). there exist 332 DOCs and 73 DOCGs for a total of 405 DOPs.

DOC wines must have been IGP wines for at least 5 years and they have stricter regulations than IGP wines.

A DOC wine can be promoted to DOCG if it has been a DOC for at least 10 years. In addition to following the requisites for DOC wines, DOCG wines must pass a stricter analyses including a tasting by a specifically appointed committee. (I would like to pour for that committee.)

Many Italian wines are blends of three or more grape varieties and this is strictly regulated for IGP, DOC or DOCG wine. Traditionally, Chianti, a DOC or DOCG wine, from the Tuscany region was a blend of Sangiovese with a small percentage of Canaiolo Nero, Mammolo and Colorino and white grapes Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia.

That has been updated. Chianti no longer has to add white grapes and now are able to grow and add – in small percentages – non-traditional grapes such as Cabernet and Merlot.

One limitation still held onto is grape names on the label. When a grape name is listed on the label, it is followed by a “di” or “della” and then the place name. For instance, Barbera d’Asti, Brunello di Montalcino, Fiano di Avellino, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Morellino di Scansano.

To further complicate matters, blends of grapes are also listed with a place name. That’s because everyone in Italy knows what grapes are allowed to grow in a particular region. Amarone (a style) della Valpolicella (an appellation) is probably the most famous blend made with the dried grapes of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella.

There is also Ripasso (style) della Valpolicella which is a fermentation process that passes the wine over the pomace of Recioto (style) della Valpolicella. The Recioto is a sweet, unctuous dessert wine made from very ripe and then dried grapes.

I’m telling you this because I needed to refresh my memory about Italian wines and share some recently great, affordable Italian wines I’ve enjoyed. The one that began this quest was new to me – Otto Bucce, a DOC Rosso from Piedmonte.

In the Piedmonte, in northwestern Italy, Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto are the notable red grapes. Less well known and very unique grape varieties are Brachetto, Bonarda Piemontese, Freisa and Albarossa.

The label of this rosso intrigued me with its bunch of red grapes and eight grape names – Dolcetto, Barbera, Bonarda Piedmonte, Merlot, Cabernet, Fresia, Albarossa and Syrah.

This name Otto (eight) Bucce (skins) underscores the unique blend of eight indigenous Piemontese and international grapes which all contribute to this brilliant ruby red with structure, character and a huge amount of fragrance. The wine spends 12 months in the traditional large barrels and ends in neutral French barrique for a smooth, balanced quaff to pair with your next plate of spaghetti.

One of my all-time favorite Italian grapes is Barbera. Barbera d’Asti is a DOCG that lies in the heart of Italy’s Piedmont region. The Lavignone Barbera d’Asti is a classic example. The wine is macerated for a week and then vinified entirely in stainless steel. This would account for the heavenly aromatics and bright flavors of cherries, violets and herbs. Soft tannins and a nice dose of acidity make this wine a favorite with any meal except breakfast.

The Apulia region is in southern Italy, the heel of the boot, and known for producing big reds from Primitivo, Negroamaro, Nero di Troia and Malvasia Nera grapes. Salice Salentino is a DOC of Puglia created in 1976. The area centers on the town of Salice on the Salento Peninsula.

The Marchese di Borgosole Salice Salentino Riserva DOC has a strong, dark, ruby ​​red color. The bouquet is of delicious, fruity berries with a fine nuance of tobacco and chocolate. On the palate it is smooth. A perfect and harmonious drinking pleasure with a crisp bite and a hint of bitterness for a long-lasting finish.

May your wine adventures lead to many bottles of Italian wine in your cellar.

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Seeking out Italian Wines and Cuisine

Chicagoland is, in my opinion, a great place for Italian cuisine. And, of course, Italian wine. I enjoyed some wonderful wines on a recent trip, most from the Old World because that’s what I seek out when in the Midwest. Old World wine and Italian beef sandwiches.

A visit with one of my favorite brothers, always involves Italian wines. He dutifully had several bottles of wine waiting when I arrived. We popped the cork on his newest find, Zucardi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. He loves this full-bodied wine but is dismissive of the little piece of vine attached to the bottles neck. A marketing ploy, he says.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo comes from the Abruzzi hills above the Adriatic coast. It’s made from the Montepulciano grape from the wine region located along the calf of the boot of Italy.

You may have heard of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – no relation to Montepulciano the grape – but rather a Sangiovese based wine from vineyards surrounding the town of Montepulciano in Tuscany. Rule of thumb for Italian wines is di, del, or della in between two words on the label means “grape” from “region.”

The Abruzzi region, one of the most widely exported of all Italian wines, is dominated by giant cooperatives that pump out decent every day jug wine with black cherry flavors, soft tannins and made to be consumed that night.

But a few more serious producers are making some mighty fine wine. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was first classified as Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) in 1968. This DOC is permitted to blend up to 15 per cent Sangiovese with the Montepulciano grape. Wines aged for more than two years are permitted to add Riserva to their labels.

I loved the Zucardi too and found another old favorite from the same region – Barone Cornacchia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, to see what he thought of another producer of the Montepulciano grape.

Montepulciano’s are full-bodied with good balance which makes them really good food wine. We enjoyed ours with fresh picked tomatoes and cheese, while dining al fresco on the patio.

For our family dinner of roast chicken, garlic mashed potatoes, and carrots, he cracked out a Produttori del Barbaresco. This special wine is from the Piedmonte in northwestern Italy. It’s the little sister of Barolo, a big wine with big tannins and a big personality. Ageing for years is a must, sometimes ten or twenty years depending on vintage.

Both Barbaresco and Barolo are made from the same grape, Nebbiolo. Just different areas near the city of Alba. Barbaresco vineyards are northwest of the city and at lower elevations than their big Barolo brother’s southwest vineyards. One other difference is Barbaresco enjoys a more sheltered position, lying further away from weather systems coming off the Atlantic.

Produttori del Barbaresco, founded in 1958, is actually a cooperative of producers around the town of Barbaresco and managed by Aldo Vacca, former assistant to Angelo Gaja of Barolo fame. Produttori sources fruit from 50 member-growers farming 250 acres of premium Nebbiolo vineyards in the commune of Barbaresco.

Fermented in stainless steel tanks, this wine spends 30 days on the skin with pumping over 2 to 3 times a day. This gives the wine a beautiful dark, rich color. It’s then aged 24 months in big barrels of neutral Slovian oak called grandi botti.

After 30 months, it’s bottled and then about 260,000 bottles are distributed worldwide. So, there’s plenty of this classic, best value Barbaresco to enjoy with lamb chops or roast chicken with chanterelles.

The Veneto area in the northeast also produces classic wines. The unique wines of Valpolicella are made with a blend of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella grapes and 5 different styles. Basic Valpolicella is a lighter table type wine, Classico is from the original Valpolicella zone, Superiore is aged at least a year, and Ripasso is made with partially dried grapes left over from the Amarone or Recioto fermentation. Reciotos and Amarones are made from dried grapes and downright magnificent.

Valpolicella was awarded DOC status in 1968. Amarone and Recioto received Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) status in 2009.

I enjoyed a couple of unusual bottles of Valpolicella while visiting. Both were labeled Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT), one of four Italian wine classifications. IGT signifies the wine is typical of that geographical region but doesn’t qualify for the DOC or DOCG’s stricter requirements. Maybe the vines weren’t old enough, the alcohol content is not in the range for that particular style, or maybe some of the grapes came from outside that designated region. Any of these reasons would keep the wines from being DOC or DOCG.

One such IGT was made by Natale Verga Antale Veneto. This full-bodied, elegant wine had intense color from the slight drying of the grapes. The blend is mostly Corvina with a little Merlot, hence IGT status since Merlot is not an allowed grape in this DOC or DOCG. This would be my go to wine for my favorite Italian beef and hot giardiniera – Paul’s in Westchester, Illinois.

Another new to me IGT wine was Cecilia Beretta {FREEDA} Rosé. It’s a blend of Corvina, Cabernet and Carménère grapes from the southern area of Lake Garda. After being harvested by hand, the grapes are pressed together with a short maceration to achieve the pale pink color. Each grape adds its own character to the wine – cherries and raspberries from Corvina, green peppercorn from the Cabernet and minerality and body from the Carménère. A must for the next time you have lobster risotto.

Cin Cin!

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Grape Harvest Challenges – 2017

An ideal grape growing season would be 7 months long with a frost-free spring for the tender new shoots emerging. A long, mild summer with warm days and cool nights for measured grape maturity, a balance between fruit sugars and acidity.  Harvest at the end of September would be rain free with warm, sunny days and cool nights.

However, hot, dry summers have shortened the grape growing seasons by weeks for several years now. And unseasonable storms brought on by climate change shorten the growing season to the detriment of the wine industry.

Typically, higher, cooler elevations were picked in October, now picking is in September and moving into August. The wine growing season is changing.

Devastating spring frosts, isolated hailstorms and prolonged heatwaves have been presenting more of a challenge. Wine producers around the world debate and plan for the impact of extreme weather – more hardy rootstock and better placement of varietals. Some even plant multiple clones in one vineyard. Some clones may be heat resistant and some may be mildew resistant.

France and Italy are the top wine producing nations in the world often trading first place for tonnage harvested. But for both countries the 2017 grape harvest has been greatly affected by weather extremes. The spring frosts in Bordeaux, Loire and Alsace reduced the crop size.  Then August hailstorms further decimated what survived the frosts. This year’s harvest was reduced to the size of the 1945 harvest.

Bitter cold struck the right bank of Bordeaux twice within a week in April, ravaging the fragile shoots and buds that had emerged prematurely during the mild temperatures in March. To combat the frost, Bordeaux winemakers set fires in oil drums, and then positioned them carefully between the rows of budding grapevines. Giant fans were also deployed to battle the cold to move the cold damp air.

In Italy, several regions also experienced frost and then a heatwave nicknamed Lucifer, left grapes vulnerable to drought. The brutal summer sun shut down the vines and the crop size was reduced drastically. Vineyards with mature vines that had deep roots were able to tap water with roots that had grown over the years deep into the ground. Younger more shallow roots could not survive as well under these climatic conditions.

California is the third largest wine producing region in the world. That industry also has felt the heat with drought and heatwaves. And then the heartbreaking, devastating wildfires hit Sonoma, Napa and Mendocino wine country during harvest.

In 2008, California wildfires burned 1.3 million acres and the state experienced record levels of air pollution. That year, the wildfires left many California vineyards with smoke-tainted grapes.

Harvest was in full swing when the devastating fires broke out in Napa, Mendocino and Sonoma last Sunday. While 90 percent of the wine grapes have been harvested, there were still grapes in the vineyards to be picked.

With most of the harvest fermenting away, a wildfire roaring close by, closed roads, electricity and cellular service down, winemaking in California faces new challenges. Without access or electricity, fermentation is running rampant. But at least some still have wine fermenting and a building to do it in.

Wineries and vineyards have burned as a result of the fires, including Nicholson Ranch in Sonoma and Frey Vineyards, a pioneer in organic and biodynamic wines, in Mendocino County.

Among other damaged wineries, White Rock Vineyards, established as a winery at the foot of the Stag’s Leap in 1871, burned to the ground; Signorello Estate, a family-owned winery along the Silverado Trail, was also burned to the ground, Santa Rosa winery Paradise Ridge is an ashen pile of rubble on a blackened hillside.

Some wineries were more fortunate, in Santa Rosa, Ancient Oak Cellars reported a house and two outbuildings were destroyed but fortunately the majority of the bottled wines and all of its wine in barrels were safe in other locations.

Many wineries are still standing but have sustained landscaping damage. Kenwood Vineyards, BR Cohn, and Chateau St. Jean reported fires damaging the grounds surrounding the wineries. With power out, the wineries are finding it difficult to take care of the wines fermenting away in stainless steel. With many vineyards on the fire line, assessing crop and vineyards damage is still an unknown.

At least 35,000 acres in Sonoma and 12,000 acres in the Atlas Peak fire has burned, there are no reports yet about the number of vineyard acres that may have burned.  In addition, time will tell if smoke taint will be an issue.

Gallo, who owns the famous Stagecoach Vineyard off of Soda Canyon Road in Napa Valley, has not been able to get updates on the vineyard’s status. Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet is highly prized by dozens of top Napa wineries.

When the fires broke out, the 2017 grape harvest had been in full swing, somewhat ahead of schedule. Winemakers were rushing to pick during a September heat wave since the sugar levels had spiked and grapes ripened almost overnight.

Now questions remain about the extent of damage the fires will have on California’s wine regions. It appears Cabernet, which was not quite ripe yet, will be in very short supply.  As will Pinot Noir in the Mendocino region, which hadn’t been harvested before the wildfires.

Big and small, top drawer and everyday wines, this is a devastating loss to the area’s residents and businesses.

In our own backyard, a hot summer and the ever present wildfires may have influenced the flavor of the 2017 harvest in ways that we wish it hadn’t. But it seems likely that Washington wines will be in high demand considering the challenges in France, Italy and California.

Washington, second behind California in wine production, has almost 900 wineries that contribute approximately $2.1 billion to the state economy. Last year, 350 growers harvested a record 270,000 tons of grapes and produced 17.5 million cases of wine.

Even with the spikes in temperatures and the threat of wildfire damage, Washington’s harvest began in late August, a bit later than the previous two years.

Production for 2017 is estimated to be less than 2016. For instance, at the sixth week mark, about 40% of the Washington grape harvest is in. Data from the Washington Wine Report regarding tons harvested by Oct. 2nd:

2015 – 540,000 tons   (82% complete)
2016 – 419,000 tons   (67% complete)
2017 – 211,000 tons   (~40% complete)

The waiting game in the vineyards may make harvest a nail biter, but the purple hands at the wineries gives us hope for the coming vintages.

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Explore Italy’s wines beyond Pinot Grigio and Chianti

Italy is the second largest and in some years largest, wine producing country in the world. With 20 regions, 97 provinces, over 2,000 grape varietals and a classification system that is complicated, to say the least, Italy is the go-to wine for many wine lovers both novice and pinky up.

For many, Pinot Grigio and Chianti are their limits for this wine region but there so, so many more regions to explore.  Gargenega, Gavi di Gavi, Amarone di Valpolicella, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Nero d’Avola, Prosecco, Fiano de Avellino, Frascati and Soave are all wonderful if not familiar to the average American.

But everyone has heard of Tuscany, where there are six distinct Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG for short) regions for a sea of red wine. Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano, Carmignano and Bolgheri all have one grape in common – Sangiovese.

Despite the recent changes in regulations to include international grape varieties, Italian wines for the most part are bonded to the traditional, indigenous varieties which are estimated to be around 2,000. Of those many grape varieties, Sangiovese takes the cake for the most widely planted in all of Italy.

Tuscany or if you’re Italiano, Toscana, is the most beloved region in Italy. Not only for wine but as the birthplace of language, arts (the Uffizi Gallery has masterpieces of Michelangelo, Botticelli, Rubens, Caravaggio, Rembrandt and more), sciences and literature. All under the patronage of the Medici who followed in the Roman footsteps of planting vineyards everywhere they ruled.

Tuscany is an undulating landscape with hillside vineyards surrounding hill topped towns that supply the vast majority of the best wines. Sangiovese vines are widely planted in Tuscany and have been as far back as three centuries ago. There are a plethora of Sangiovese clones, some are known by their place name and have local names such as Brunello or Prugnolo Gentile.

You’ll find it in places such as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Maremma, Morellino de Scansano, Carmignano and Super Tuscans.  It’s the mainstay of Toscana wines with other grapes playing a supporting role only in Chianti and Carmignano. Bolgheri DOC, home to the first Super Tuscan, is more international in its regulations.

For the most part, Italian wines have place names on the labels unlike New World wines with grape names on the label. For example, Chianti is a place within the borders of Tuscany in Central Italy. In the Chianti region, DOCG regulations require that seven Chianti zones be composed of at least 70% and could be up to 100% Sangiovese with no more than 30% other grapes that could include traditional red grapes, Canaiolo and Colorino and/or International varieties Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot. White grapes, Trebbiano and Malvasia, may not exceed 10% of the blend and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc may be 10% separate or together. These regulations are more stringent and mind boggling for the eighth zone, Chianti Classico.

Surrounding the hill top town of Montalcino are the vineyards of Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino. Brunello, which translates to little dark one, is the local name for the large berried Sangiovese Grosso clone used for these wines.

Winemaking in Montalcino dates back to the 14th century but it wasn’t until the 1870s when Ferruccio Biondi-Santi isolated the Sangiovese Grosso grape and made a particularly wonderful batch of wine from his grandfather’s Il Greppo estate. At a time when most wines were white and sweet, this was pretty daring. He also went further to limit yields and extended the maceration process for more concentrated and intensely colored wine.

One hundred years later, Brunello was named one of the first DOCGs and with that came the regulations. Only one grape, Brunello is allowed, age it for four years with at least two in wood. For Riserva, it’s six years with at least 2 in wood. As you can imagine, all that time drumming your fingers, waiting for the Brunellos to mature could make one very thirsty. There is a solution to that dilemma. It’s the Rosso di Montalcino or red of Montalcino. This baby Brunello has more relaxed regulations and only needs to be aged for one year.

Two DOCG regions that allow grape varieties other than Sangiovese clones are Carmignano and Morellino di Scansano. Carmignano is located northwest of Florence on the north bank of the Arno River. Here, Sangiovese has been blended with Cabernet since the 18th century. Today’s regulations allow 10 to 20% Cabernet or Cabernet Franc, up to 20% Canaiolo, up to 5% Mammolo, up to 5% Colorino as well as up to 10% white grapes. Carmignano can be released two years after the harvest with one of those years in wood. Riservas require 3 years with half spent in wood.

Scansano is another hilly Tuscan region located in the Maremma region on the coast of Tuscany. It achieved DOCG status in 2007 and now must contain at least 85% Sangiovese and the balance can be – get this – any red varietal approved in Tuscany. That opens the blend up to include the Cabernets, Merlot and Syrah in addition to the traditional grape varieties.

Morellino di Scansano does not require wood ageing and can be released the first May after harvest. Riservas on the other hand will not be release until the January two years after the harvest. One of those years must be in wood.

Tuscany also has offers an amazing array of culinary dishes like fresh Ricotta from Siena, panzanella salad, tomato bruschetta, olive oil, truffles, Zuppa Toscana, Pizza Margerita, cannelloni, gnocchi and Salame di Cinghiale (wild boar sausage).

Tuscany is truly a culinary adventure. Go forth and explore!

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Happy New Year! Again!

It’s almost lunar New Year, which finds revelers around the world ushering in the Year of the Rooster.  And with any cultural celebration of this kind, you will need friends and family, food and wine.

My favorite rooster is pictured on a bottle of Chianti Classico, the gallo nero or black rooster. The black rooster on that bottle of Chianti Classico is one of the most widely recognized emblems of a quality wine. But that wasn’t always the case.

Back a century or two, winemaking in Chianti was pretty much a free for all.  Canaiolo was the main grape variety with lesser amounts of Sangiovese, Mammolo and Marzimino in a supporting role.  Somewhere along the way, Malvasia and Trebbiano, both white grapes, were added to the mix to soften the wine and make it more drinkable.

The region really didn’t have any guidelines for the “recipe,” so in the early 1900s, the government stepped in to help by classifying the area to decrease the huge amounts of faux Chianti produced.

They did this by acknowledging Chianti as both a wine region and a “recipe”.  Then as all governments are wont to do, they passed many laws requiring winemakers to meet certain criteria if they want to put the name Chianti, Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) or Denominazione di Origine Controllata  e Garantita (DOCG) on the label.

In 1996, another major regulation modification brought about colossal change to the grape varieties permitted. The minimum percentage of Sangiovese increased from 75% to 80% and could be as much as 100%.  In addition, the other twenty percent could be other native red grapes, such as Canaiolo, Mammolo, Colorino or even non-native varieties, such as Cabernet, Syrah or Merlot.  As of 2006, white grapes are no longer permitted in a Chianti Classico.

Those stringent regulations included minimum alcohol levels, any new vineyard may only be used after its fourth year, yields must be less than 3.34 tons per acre, production is limited to 6.6 pounds per vine , seven months minimum barrel aging, for Riservas, 24 months minimum maturation with at least three months bottle aging and the most interesting and perhaps comforting, before bottling, the wine has to pass a chemical exam and approval by a tasting panel. Makes one kind of feel like royalty.

A few years ago, the Consorzio Gallo Nero organized the Chianti Classico 2000 Project to modernize viticulture and improve quality. This was sorely needed because during the 20th century, clones of Sangiovese, of which there are a boatload, were planted more for quantity than quality.  When replanting, many growers planted whatever was available not taking into account the extreme soil and climatic differences around the region.

The project took 16 years to complete, 16 experimental vineyards, five research cellars; ten meteorological stations installed to track micro- and macro-climate patterns.

Hundreds of clones were identified. A few Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino clones were chosen because they were less susceptible common viral diseases, had smaller berries, thicker skins, and more open bunches.

Those clones are now producing some delicious Chianti Classicos. Look for the 2013 vintage to accompany your next plate of pasta. Or Sausage Pizza, or Spaghetti and Meatballs, or Rigatoni with Bolognese Sauce, or Wild Mushroom Risotto or Potato Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Sauce.

Chianti Classico refers to the oldest area, the classic region. It’s located between Florence and Siena and is the hub of the Chianti region within the larger Tuscan region.

Like spokes surrounding the hub, are seven other Chianti zones, each with its own particular soil, climate, and regulations. They are Colli Aretini, Colli Forentini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, Montalbano, Montespertoli and Rufina. On their labels are their Chianti names such as Chianti Colli Senesi (the hills of Siena) or Chianti Colli Forentini (the hills of Florence).

But enough of Italy, let’s talk about Washington State. There were about 400 tons of Sangiovese harvested in 2004. It’s a prolific but difficult vine, likened to Pinot Noir.  Through the years planting increased and by 2015 tonnage was up to 1, 300.

It’s planted in some of the best vineyards in the Wahluke AVA, Red Mountain AVA and scattered around the Columbia Valley AVA.

Cavatappi’s with its red wine stained label, to the best of my recollection has been around the longest, some 30 years. Leonetti, Walla Walla Vintners, Five Star, Tagaris, and Kiona have also been producing for some time with at least 75% being Sangiovese and perhaps a touch of Cabernet in there as is done with the Super Tuscans.
Smaller, newer wineries fermenting Sangiovese in no particular order are Sequim’s Wind Rose Cellars, Vino la Monarcha from Victor Palencia who also fashions Jones of Washington’s Sangiovese, Latah Creek out of Spokane, Brian Carter’s has a little Cab and Syrah added to his Sangiovese, Helix by Reininger, Maryhill Winery along the Columbia River sources Sangiovese from Elephant Mountain Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, and Walla Walla’s Five Star Quinque Astrum, which is Italian for five star.
The Rosé of Sangiovese by Barnard Griffin has won gold numerous times and Waterbrook makes a pretty rose colored tasty one too.

Interesting note, the origin of the word Sangiovese is Latin for the blood of Jove. Jove or Jupiter, the king of the Roman gods, is best remembered for the exclamation of “By Jove! I think I‘ve got it!”

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Tomatoes and Barbera

Tomatoes are such a versatile fruit of the vine. It’s the tomatoes high acidity that really sets it apart from the rest of the vegetable crops. With tomatoes, I like reds with equal parts acidity, fruit and tannins. Those favored reds to have with tomatoes all have their roots in Italy, Barbera, Chianti and Sangiovese.  barbera
Chianti is a blended wine with a preponderance of Sangiovese. Sangiovese is Italy’s most widely planted grape with vineyards in Tuscany being the most heavily planted to the grape. There you can drink Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile and Super Tuscans, all made with Sangiovese.
But with tomatoes, I reach more towards Barbera. Second only to Sangiovese in production and versatility, it’s naturally high in acidity so it does very well in warmer climates, like Italy, California and Eastern Washington.
Barbera reaches its zenith in the Piedmont region where you can find labels stating Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba. It also does best on the well-drained, limestone slopes of Asti and Alba in northwestern Italy.
Even the warmer sites in Eastern Washington, Sonoma Valley and the Sierra Foothills produce some fantastic Barberas. This acidity complements the fruit flavors and the wines are ripe, bright and tangy, a perfect match for Ann Vogel’s Tomato Tarte Tatin.
Barbera is a dark-skinned variety found in several Italian wine regions, including its native Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, Puglia, Campania, Sicily and Sardinia. Barbera can be both on its own or blended, usually with that other Piedmonte grape, Nebbiolo.
Like so many Italian grape varieties, Barbera has an interesting history. It was recorded in the cathedral of Casale Monferrato archives where leased vineyards were planted to Barbera between 1246 and 1277. Barbera was well regarded for its “rustic yet generous” character.
It was a favorite among army officers, who considered the wine a “sincere companion” and helped them maintain their courage in battle. Also cited in a Società Agraria di Torino document in 1798, there you can read the first definitive list of Piedmont’s grape varieties.
This varietal’s bright and cooperative nature has made it equally popular in California. Barbera is the sixth most planted red grape in California, but is rarely bottled alone. Loved for its color and acidity, Barbera is usually blended to tame other varietals into better balance.
So where to start with Barbera? I would highly recommend Italy’s La Spinetta Barbera d’Alba or d’Asti, Prunotto Barbera d’Asti Pomorosso, Sandrone Barbera d’Alba, Seghesio Barbera d’Alba, Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne or d’Asti, or Voerzio Barbera d’Alba.
Early California planters and producers of Barbera were Martini, Seghesio, and Sebastiani. Sebastiani was winning awards for his Barbera in the 1930s.
But in this century, I’d choose a Montevina Amador Barbera, Sobon Estate Amador Barbera, Seghesio Alexander Valley Barbera, Shenandoah Sierra Foothills Reserve Barbera or Renwood Amador County Barbera.
Cavu Cellars Barbera Rose, Facelli, Maryhill Winery, Stomani Cellars, and Wind Rose Cellars all produce Barberas from Washington grown grapes.
Bon Apetito!

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Weekly Wine Defined – Gavi

Gavi is a full bodied Italian white made from the Cortese grape. this grape has been around for some time, it’s roots can be traced back to the 1600s.

It is produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Gavi in the Piedmont region. It was given DOC status in 1974 and production more than tripled in the next 25 years.

What makes this grape unusual is where it’s grown. Piedmont is red wine country, home to big Barolos, Barbaresco, Gattinara, Dolcetto and Barbera. And yet, the region boasts two of today’s most popular white wines, Gavi and Moscato d’Asti.

Gavi’s aromatics are floral with a bit of lemon and apple. The fruity flavors are crisp green apple and melon with mineral notes and tangy citrus finish. It’s  best served chilled with a broiled red snapper with an orange-fennel garnish or fillet of sole with sautéed zucchini and almonds.

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An Evening in Italy

Last fall Brynn put us up on the auction block for a fundraiser for her sorority. It was to  raise money for a scholarship and we have this unique and sought after talent: cooking, wine pairing and cleaning up.

We quickly decided on an Italian theme since it is so popular and there are so many Italian wines to choose from. Our goal was to wow them with dinner, and introduce them to some unique Italian wines.

The evening began with a classic antipasti called Bagna Cauda which literally translates to  “hot bath.” The bath is made of garlic and anchovies steeped in olive oil. This is served with little chunks of asparagus, carrots, cauliflower, peppers, cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, and Pugliese bread.

The diner dips the vegetables into the hot oil while using the bread to catch any drips, and then mangia, mangia! Two wines were served with this dish: a white, Italo Cescon Pinot Grigio from Veneto ($13) and a rosso, Pico Maccario Barbera d’Asti ($14).

The Pinot Grigio from the Venice area was crisp, floral with good weight. The Barbera was perfect, lots of fruit with a hint of herbs and very good acidity. The acidity is typical of this grape variety and a perfect foil to the olive oil.

The pasta course was cheese ravioli in brown butter with sautéed mushrooms and toasted garlic. The wine, Villa Caffagio Chianti Classico 2009 was so smooth, with depth and great flavors of cherries and herbs. It was well balanced and had a wonderful silky finish. It can be had for around $19.

Brodetto, or the soup course, was a spicy potato kale served with a Tuscan red. We chose the Tuscan red to be served after the Chianti Classico because we wanted to show the Sangiovese grape from the same area in a different way.

We poured a Villa Antinori Toscana Red 2009. To have Chianti on the label a wine must meet the strict regulations governing the region. Any number of technicalities prevent the use of Chianti on the label including the wine does not have the required 80 percent Sangiovese; the fruit is
sourced from vineyards outside Chianti; or there are additions of fruit to the blend that are not allowed.

For the main entrée, Chicken Saltimbocca in Marsala flanked by roasted acorn squash, sage-scented cannellini and Chard, we served two wines: Montresor Valpolicella 2009 and Catina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2010. Valpolicella is a blend of grapes, Corvina, Rodinella and Molinara from the wine regions surrounding Venice. The Montepulciano is the grape from the Abruzzi area which is located at the calf on the Italian boot. Both are rich and fruity in their own way and sell for around $12 each.

Dolce was a Lemon Ricotta Cheesecake which was wonderfully matched to the Risata Moscato d’Asti 2012 ($13). Moscato d’Asti is the Muscat grape, one of only two white grapes grown in the Piedmonte region of NW Italy. In this case, the wine is slightly fizzy or frizzante as the Italians call it. It was a match made in heaven.

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Weekly Wine Defined – IGP

But, but… Isn’t it supposed to be IGT? I recently bought an Italian wine with IGP on the label and wondered if it was a typo.
We’ve all seen the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) on Italian labels for many years; it’s the designation for wines that don’t meet the stricter requirements of DOC or DOCG designations. So, it could be anything from a Super Tuscan to a Toscano Rosso.
The DO (Denominazione di Origine), DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) are designations of origin and quality according to Italian wine law. These designations, instituted in 1963, require wine be produced within the specified region using defined methods and a defined standard to be labeled with a DOC or DOCG.

IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) is the updated version that complies with EU law.

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What to Drink – La Carraia Sangiovese

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La Carraia Sangiovese Umbria 2010

Umbria is fairly unique in that it is one of two landlocked regions in Italy. The other 18 regions all border on the sea.

But in landlocked Umbria just southeast of  Tuscany, La Carraia was founded in 1976 by two families. One of the founders was an Italian marketing and production entrepreneur. Before long, La Carraia began producing bulk wines for a couple of top estates, Ruffino and Rocca delle Macie.

Today the winery owns almost 200 hundred acres near the heart of the Orvieto Classico region which is planted to the allowed grapes of Grechetto, Trebbiano, Verdelllo, Drupeggio and Malvasia.

This Sangiovese is a brilliant ruby red color fermented in stainless steel with a lot of punch downs, then aged in oak for 3 months. It has loads of  juicy plum and berry fruits on the nose. The plush fruit carries through on the palate with blackberry, plum and hints of herbs and spicy oak. Full bodied with crisp acidity and smooth tannins.

This wine is a bargain at just under $9.

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