Cheers To You

Poutine, a common dish found in Canada, has started to make itself known in the states.

What would probably be considered comfort food by our friendly neighbors to the north, is popping up as trendy food over the border in states like our own.

With its savory flavors, hand-cut French fries and endless topping possibilities, it’s a dish that can single-handedly take out will power and lure even the healthiest eater into temptation.

As Ann Vogel notes in her recipe, poutine originated in Quebec. There’s some disagreement over exactly where in Quebec the dish was first crafted, or who gave it its name, but as one story goes a well-known restaurateur exclaimed in the way most French love to do, that a customer’s request to add cheese curds to a bag filled with fresh fries would make a mess, or “poutine.”

Cheese curds are a specialty to the area, and popular among local eaters. Gravy was later added to the concoction to keep the fries warm longer.

For this original French “hybrid” dish we would like to recommend another original French wine made from a hybrid grape called Baco noir.

Starting around the 1880s it was common for vineyard growers to cross European grape varietals with American grapes. On the scene at the time was Francois Baco, who managed to make a tasty, lush red wine that was unusually resistant to cold weather.

The grape was a cross between a white grape known as folle blanche, grown chiefly for cognac, and an unknown American red grape.

Baco noir is planted where cold winters are a problem — the Midwest, East Coast and of course, Canada.

One of the best baco noirs from the Northwest region comes from Oregon’s Girardet Wine Cellar. We think it’s a perfect match for the poutine.

On a side note, if you’re thinking of trying the poutine but don’t want to spend the time making it, here’s something to consider: Seattle-based Jones Soda will be launching a poutine-flavored drink for consumers to try. The catch? You have to travel to Canada to give it a try.

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Brynn writes:
To keep my airline miles from expiring I recently had hundreds of magazines to choose from. The problem is I find I have no time to read magazines (just ask my husband, my growing stack of unread People’s is driving him nuts).

But while perusing the list there was one name that caught my eye: Wine Spectator. I thought “hey this is something I’d like to read for personal and professional reasons, and if I’m lucky the hubs will also want to read it and not get mad when the magazines start to accumulate around the house.”

So subscribe I did and a short number of days later our mailbox was filled with the oversized publication. The cover told us what we were in for: “Bordeaux at Its Best, 2010: A classic vintage; 450 at 90+”.

Washington winemakers produce some great Bordeaux blends and we’re starting to familiarize ourselves with those, but we decided we’d take the Wine Spectator opinion about the 2009 and 2010 vintages coming out of France (they’re calling them two of the best in recent history) and look for wines from the top-producing wine regions at our local grocer. The nice thing about France is you can often good wine from a region that is producing some of the world’s top wines, at an affordable price.

With a list of wine regions in his hand, my husband set out to try and find something in the $11 to $12 price range for us to compare. He came home with a 2010 Chateau Blouin from Bordeaux’s Right Bank and a 2010 Mouton Cadet, also from the Right Bank.

We decided to pour the two and try them against each other, and with our steak dinner, to decide which we preferred.

The Chateau Blouin is a blend of 8o percent merlot and 20 percent cabernet franc; the Cadet had a few more grapes, breaking down with 65 percent merlot, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon and 15 percent cab franc.

Both wines had good structure and were indicative of what you can expect of a Bordeaux — dark fruit flavors and berries with strong tannins, which made the wines a tight at first, but after some time in the glass they softened.

Our preference of the two with dinner was the Cadet. This wine had a beautiful ruby red robe, a great nose (I’m pretty sure that was thanks to the merlot) and a softer finish on the palate. I noted the finish was slightly lacking, which I think was a result of a minerality in the wine that kept it from opening across my palate.

The Chateau Blouin failed to impress me. It had the same beautiful robe with a stronger purple tint. The nose was musty, (although that might have been from my glass) and the finish was “tangy”. This wine had more earth flavors and was slightly vegetal.

After trying the wines with our steak dinner we decided we should probably see how they stood up to chocolate. So we paired them with dessert. The chocolate really seemed to bring out the flavors of the Cadet, while the Chateau Blouin remained closed. My husband felt that both wines did better with the chocolate than the steak, but part of that could also be that by the time we had them with chocolate they had time to breath and open up.

I’m not sure I’d buy them again, but then again for $11 and with enough time to open up in a decanter, I could probably be swayed to try the Cadet one more time.

If you’re interested in trying a similar comparison, look for some of these more affordable wines as recommended by James Molesworth of Wine Spectator (the name in parenthesis is the region where the grapes were grown):

• Chateau Montlabert, (St-Emilion) $20
• Chateau Bel Air, (Haut-Medoc) $23
• Chateau Belle-vue, (Haut-Medoc) $25
• Chateau de Carlmagnus, (Fronsac) $18
• Chateau Retout, (Haut-Medoc) $18
• Terra Burdigala, (Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux Chateau Manoir du Gravoux la Violette 2010) $20
• Chateau Paloumey, (Haut-Medoc) $17

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Mary writes:

From the Alps to the Adriatic Sea, this wine region in northeastern Italy borders Austria and Slovenia. And because of the three distinct cultures and geography, this region puts out wines that are very unique to Italy.

In Friuli you can find crisp, fruity mostly white wines made from the grapes Tocai Friulano, Ribolla, Malvalsia, Verduzzo, Picolit, Refrosco, and Pignolo.

But wait there’s more! French varietals Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and Pinot Nero were introduced in the 19th Century.

The region produces a modest amount of wine by Italian standards but on the plus side, the percentage of DOC wines produced is one of Italy’s highest.

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Brynn writes:

While interviewing David LeClaire, co-owner and general manager of Seattle’s Wine World, for the article we wrote on what sparkling wines to serve for New Years, he asked if I knew the term “Grower Champagne”?

Nope.

Since it’s a term I’d not heard before, I’m guessing it’s one you might not know either. So I’ll define it.

Grower champagne: This is the wine made by champagne houses that is artisanal compared to than the mass production of the product that pops up on our grocery store shelves. Terroir is the focus of these wines — the growers that own the vineyards source the grapes for the wine from a single village, instead of combining the juice from grapes grown across the region.

These wines will be different every year based on the growing conditions, whereas the mass produced wine from the region will be consistently similar year after year. Grower champagnes are released younger than those that come from the larger Champagne houses, likely because the smaller entities don’t have the money to store the wine and age it.

LeClaire described the grower champagnes as having the most character. He said they are “perfect for the enthusiast, for someone who wants to try something new. This is for the geeks.” These wines won’t be found at Fred Meyer or Safeway, you’ll need to go into a quality wine shop. Prices start around $40. LeClaire said his favorites include Gaston Chiquet and Theirry Triolet.

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By now you’ve probably secured your New Year’s Eve plans, but have you finalized what you’ll be drinking?

If you’re like most Americans, Champagne — sparkling wine if it’s made in America, Prosecco if it’s from Italy, or cava if from Spain — is not something you drink every day.

Instead it’s reserved for special occasions, like New Year’s Eve. (Incidentally, in Italy and Spain people drink their sparklers on a daily basis, much like most Seattleites drink coffee every day).

Seeing as we’re not in Italy or Spain, chances are you don’t drink Champagne (or sparkling wine, Prosecco, cava, et al.) except for once or twice a year. If that’s the case, the thought of selecting a bottle, or two, or three, to ring in the New Year may not top your list of favorite things to do.

That’s where we come in. We called David LeClaire, founder and general manager of Wine World and Spirits, located just off Interstate-5 in Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood. LeClaire is also a certified sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers.

Needless to say, he knows wine.

So what does LeClaire recommend for this year’s celebration? That depends on what you’re looking for, he said.

If you’re planning a party for a number of guests (read: wide range of palates and likes and dislikes), LeClaire recommends serving Italy’s Prosecco.

“Prosecco, to me, is one of the best toasting Champagnes you can get,” he said.

The price is nice too — typically a Prosecco in the $9 to $10 range is going to be good. And it’s widely available.

This wine is favorable for large groups because it has a touch more sweetness to it, without being too sweet. Usually it’s liked by everyone.

If dry wine is more your style, consider cava over France’s Champagne. It’s cheaper, while still a quality wine.

General rule of thumb: look for wines in the $10 range, LeClaire said. Anything below $10 may cause you to regret your purchase, especially if you overindulge this year. That’s because sparkling wines in the $6 range have likely been injected with carbon dioxide, which produces the bubbles and often the headache.

“The saying is: The bigger the bubbles, the bigger the headache,’” LeClaire said.

The smaller the bubbles, the better the wine. During fermentation wine produces carbon dioxide as a byproduct of yeast eating sugar in the grape juice. For non-sparkling wine gas is allowed to escape; to make it tingle on your tongue, the gas is kept in the bottle, producing the bubbles.

If you’re looking for bubbly from France, but don’t want to pay the markup on a wine from Champagne, consider one from the Alsace region that straddles France and Germany.

These wines are available in the $15 price range and are very elegant, LeClaire said. Unlike Champagne, which is made from chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, Alsatian sparklers are made with Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, producing a softer wine. One brand to look for is Lucien Albrecht, which retails between $15 to $20.

A handful of Washington and Oregon wineries also have jumped into the sparkling pool. That includes Yakima’s Treveri Cellars, which was featured in 2011 at the White House for its State Department holiday receptions and was served earlier this year at the James Beard Foundation dinner. Treveri specializes in sparkling wines, offering Pinot Gris, riesling, Gewürztraminer, chardonnay and even Syrah. You can find most of its wines between $14 and $19.

If all this talk about bubbles has your head spinning — and you haven’t even had a sip yet! — don’t stress. Go to your local wine shop or grocery store and ask the wine steward for help. If you’re in Seattle, stop by Wine World, they’ve got wines you won’t find anywhere else, and staff eager to help.

Tell the steward how much you want to spend, what you typically drink and let them do the work. As LeClaire pointed out, most people who ask for advice will walk away with a better wine than what they would have selected on their own.

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For this hearty fall stew you’ll need a nice medium-bodied red wine with robust, chewy flavors that have a strong accents of herbs and fruit.

There is a special area in France’s southern Rhone Valley called Gigondas that we think you absolutely have to try with this dish. Wines from this region are great to have with harvest stews of any kind, no matter if they are heavy with vegetables like Ann Vogel’s “Vegged Out” Pumpkin and Black Bean Soup or a soup with a little game, lamb or beef.

The vineyards of Gigondas lie at the base of the Dentelles de Montmirail, a small chain of mountains in France’s Provence region. The vineyards were first planted by the Romans and the name, translated from its Latin roots means “pleasure and enjoyment.” A visit to the region, with its sprawling vineyards connected by tiny Provençal towns filled with cobblestone streets, quaint restaurants and scenic views of the surrounding mountains, easily explains how they came up with this description.

There are many great wines that come from this region of the Southern Rhone Valley, each with their own characteristics tied to the soil and surrounding terroir of where they are grown. The vineyard farmers — many who are following a family history of growing grapes — can taste a grape and pinpoint exactly what vineyard it came from, sometimes even what row.

The various wine regions of the Rhone have specific requirements for what types of grapes can be used. In Gigondas, which became an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1971, its robust, chewy reds can’t exceed 80 percent Grenache and must contain a minimum of 15 percent syrah and mourvedre.

The best of the wines from this region can easily be stored away for 10 years or more, and typically need at least three years in the cellar before they’re ready to drink. Also of note, wines from Gigondas are considered a cheaper alternative to those of the nearby Châteauneuf du Pape region, which come with a higher price tag because of their origin.

Gigondas wines include flavors of black cherry, plum licorice and sweet herb aromas. These flavors align well with hearty stews, which are also characteristic of the Provence region.

Since such a small amount is produced, we’ll recommend several producers to look for: Vidal-Fleury, Guigal, or Chateau du Trignon. These likely won’t be available at your local grocer, so look to specialty wine shops to see what treasures you might uncover. Don’t be afraid to ask the wine shop owner if you can’t find what you’re looking for.

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Wine with pumpkin bread you ask? Well sure, why not?

For this fall harvest treat we bring to you a wine that’s much easier to drink than it is to pronounce. Gewürztraminer is a popular wine grape in Alsace and Germany, where it’s easy for them to pronounce. (The easiest way to sound like a native or to make others think you’re wine savvy, is to just say “guh vertz.”)

There are also vineyards planted to this grape in Austria, Washington and California. These wine growing regions all offer cooler climates and that’s what Gewürzt likes best.

The skin color of the grape can range from green to pink, so in the glass, some wines may have a slight tint of pink. It’s also high in natural sugars, so sweeter versions abound, but like riesling it can run the gamut in sweetness from ice wine to dry. Either way, it has a very distinctive aromatic nose with layers of rose petals, lychee and ginger being the most common.

Gewürztraminer is a versatile wine that pairs well with Asian cuisine, Indian curries and with old fashioned Thanksgiving dinners from turkey to pumpkin pie.

With Ann Vogel’s pumpkin bread recipe we would choose Pacific Rim Washington Gewürztraminer ($11) with its rose petals, lychee and pear aromas and flavors as an accompaniment. The residual sugar is around 1.7 percent but there is good amount of acidity to make it beautifully balanced.

Finding a Gewürztraminer is not an easy task, so if the Pacific Rim isn’t available locally, others to look for would be Hogue, Columbia Crest or Chateau Ste. Michelle — all in the under $15 category.

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Mary writes:

This term should be on the tip of every Merlot lover’s tongue.

It describes the part of Bordeaux on the right or north side of the river Dordogne. This includes the appellations of Cotes de Castillon, St-Émilion, Pomerol, Lalande de Pomerol, Fronsac, Canon Fronsac, Bourg and Blaye. Here Merlot and Cabernet Franc dominate the landscape and Cabernet Sauvignon continues to rule the Left Bank.\

Unlike the Left Bank, Right Bank wines were not included in the 1855 classification. However, Right Bank wines are much sought after given the fact that a bottle of 2011 Petrus from Pomerol would set you back about $1,800.

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Mary writes:

In south central France lies the wine region of Burgundy and the Côte d’Or.

Côte de Beaune occupies the southern half of the Côte d’Or, and is famous for almost all of the great burgundies.

Within the commune of Chassagne are major portions of Montrachet and Batard Montrachet, two of the greatest chardonnay vineyards of France.

Chassagne-Montrachet also produces red burgundy — from the pinot noir grape — but the vineyard is more known for its spectacular and expensive chardonnays.

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For this week’s wine pairing we’re going to take a little journey 10 hours across the continent, over Iceland and the Atlantic Ocean to France.

There are two regions we have in mind from this wine-rich country that produce fruit-forward white wines with high acidity that will compliment Ann Vogel’s goat cheese with honeyed herb crostini recipe.

The tart, creamy goat cheese topped with a sweet, rich syrup is best paired with a wine that has both sweetness and acidity. France’s Alsace and Vouvray regions each produce beautiful white wines that meet this criteria.

We’ll stay in Vouvray for this week’s pairing recommendation. If we were to serve this dish to a room full of guests, we’d pair it with Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec 2010.

This specific Vouvray has a nice balance between the natural acidity of the fruit and a hint of sweetness from maturity. Its crisp mineral, peach and pear flavors are packed in a full-bodied wine.

Now a little about Vouvray. All Vouvray is made from the chenin blanc grape.

Beyond being a wine, Vouvray also is an appellation of Touraine — a region in the beautiful and historic Loire Valley of France. It also is a village. The village is surrounded by vineyards and the impressive castles of Chenonceau and Villandry.

Another famous place in the region is the Clos du Lucé in the small town of Amboise, the last home of Leonardo da Vinci — who we’re guessing probably enjoyed Vouvray with his afternoon repast.

Vouvray wines can be sweet, dry, still and sparkling. Sweetness levels are labeled as sec (dry), demi-sec (half dry) and moelleux (sweet). The sparkling wines are labeled either petillant or mousseux.

Because of its abundant acidity, Vouvray can age beautifully for quite some time. This one sells for about $15.

Goat Cheese with Honeyed Herb Crostini Recipe

• 1/2 cup honey
• 1/3 cup water
• 3 sprigs of garden herbs such as sage, basil, rosemary, and/or thyme
• 3 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 6 to 8 ounces goat cheese

Twelve slices baguette-type French bread, cut diagonally about 1/2-inch thick, toasted

Combine honey and water in a small pan and bring to a boil. Add the herb sprigs, reduce heat, and simmer 10 minutes until the liquid is reduced to about 1/2 cup.

Remove from heat. Remove and discard herbs. Stir in balsamic vinegar and let cool.

Spread goat cheese thickly on toasted bread. Drizzle with balsamic-honey syrup and serve.

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