With all the holiday and birthday
celebrations,
a veritable cascade of
craft beers flowed into my glass: Some aged, some hopped, many
rich, many malty and all made by craft brewers.
Craft brewers are small, innovative
brewers. Small is defined as an annual production of 6 million
barrels or less. Craft beer is usually made with the traditional
ingredients of malted barley, yeast and hops for a variety of
different styles, but employing interesting techniques and
innovative ingredients creates even more styles to choose from.
Think bourbon barrel aging or adding maple syrup or raisins.
In 2017, there were a record number of craft
breweries in the United States – over 6,000. As of July of this
year, there were 6,655 United States breweries, the most in
history. This surpasses 1873 — yes, 1873 — when there were 4,176
breweries in the 37 United States.
European craft breweries are still ahead with
over 8,500. Statistics show 6,071 craft breweries in seven
leading countries in Europe in 2017. The United Kingdom has the
largest number with over 2,000, followed by Germany with 1,295.
As a result, most of us live within 10 miles of a
craft brewer or two or six. And if each craft brewer made six
beers, well, you get the picture. There are many beers in this
world. Each made with a different combination of malted grains,
hops and yeast.
There are hundreds of yeast varieties. In 1841,
yeast was identified as the prime engineer of fermentation. Since
then, yeast strains have been cultivated and redesigned for their
unique aromas and flavors.
In the beginning, styles of beer were driven by
climate. For instance, colder regions used yeast that could ferment
at colder temperatures. Today, craft breweries use clean cultures
of yeast for better control of fermentation. Wild yeast is
everywhere and can cause off-aromas and flavors. However, there are
some breweries that use wild yeasts with great success,
predominantly in the Lambic beers of Belgium.
In the beginning, there were the noble
hop varieties of East Kent
Goldings, Fuggle, Hallertauer, Saaz and Tettnang. Now, some of the
trendiest hop varieties are, like cultured yeasts, cultivated for
unique aromas and flavors.
Hops are used in four ways: bittering, aroma,
fresh and dual. Bittering hops, most likely in IPAs, tend to
have a high amount of acid and the accompanying bitter flavor.
Aroma hops have less acid and more complex aromas. Most brewers use
both at different stages of the fermentation process.
Fresh hop means the beer was made from hops that
were harvested less than 24 hours before the beer was brewed.
Naturally, these beers are brewed during harvest season. Dual hops
have high levels of alpha acids (bitterness) and ample aromas.
Hops are the spice of craft beers. Some are
tropical, others piney, some earthy, some floral and some hops have
more alpha acids, which contributes to bitterness.
Traditional hops originated in Germany and
England. Others were bred in the last century, such as Centennial
bred for its aroma, Nugget, a resiny bittering hop, and the
popular American-bred Willamette.
These days, designer hops have become fashionable
— like Mosaic, Citra and Simcoe. And new hop varieties are
continuing to be bred resulting in brews that may taste and smell
of tropical, lemon, blueberry, tangerine and grapefruit.
Others have pronounced piney, spicy, rosy, herbal or even a bubble
gum character.
At a recent beer geek birthday party, eight of us
tasted a bunch of beers. Most of those beers came from cellars and
the resultant tasting was mind-boggling. Many of these beers come
in small bottles of 8 or 10 ounces. Here’s what we tasted:
Although not aged in a
cellar, Rogue’s 8 hop (8.88%) and 10 hop (10.10%) IPAs are richly
brewed from hops grown on Rogue Farm. In the 10 Hop, Liberty,
Independence, Revolution, Keven, Adair, Rebel, Newport, Yaquina,
Freedom and Alluvial hops were used.
Belgian beers are favored by this group of craft
beer fans. Sound Brewery Tripel Entendre (9.9%) and Entendez Noel,
a Belgian Style Pale Quadrupel (11.8%), were pulled from the
cellar. 
Brouwerij Lindemans Cuvee Renee was a beautiful
Oude Kriek Lambic ale made with cherries and wild yeast that was
lost in someone’s cellar for a few years. Another masterpiece was
Liefmans Cuvee Brut, an aged ale made with cherries and cherry
juice, barley malt, sugar and wild yeast.
Dogfish Head Raison D’Extra,
pushing the Belgian yeast to 15%, is brewed with “an obscene”
amount of malt and raisins. 
And the hilariously-labeled-but-totally-delicious
He’Brew the Chosen Beer Jewbelation, a Sazerac Rye Whiskey
barrel-aged ale, is a Hanukah brew similar to a Christmas or Winter
beer style.
Another wonderful winter beer was a 2015 Silver
City Bourbon Barrel Old Scrooge (9.6%), and the Austrian Samichlaus
Helles, a malt liquor of 14%.
Sam Adams 1995 Triple Bock
— brewed with malted barley, noble hops and maple syrup — was aged
in whiskey barrels. A first, back in 1995.
The Orkney Brewery’s Skull Splitter, named after
Thorfinn Einarsson the 7th Viking Earl of Orkney, comes in a 330 ml
bottle, which is a good thing for this rich, sweet dessert beer
with an ABV 8.5%.
Not only was this a wonderful celebration of a
couple of holiday birthdays, but watching the Seahawks clinch a
berth in the playoffs made for hearty cheers!
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