It’s almost lunar New Year, which finds revelers around the
world ushering in the Year of the Rooster. And with any
cultural celebration of this kind, you will need friends and
family, food and wine.
My favorite rooster is pictured on a bottle of Chianti Classico,
the gallo nero or black rooster. The black rooster on that bottle
of Chianti Classico is one of the most widely recognized emblems of
a quality wine. But that wasn’t always the case.
Back a century or two, winemaking in Chianti was pretty much a free for all. Canaiolo was the main grape variety with lesser amounts of Sangiovese, Mammolo and Marzimino in a supporting role. Somewhere along the way, Malvasia and Trebbiano, both white grapes, were added to the mix to soften the wine and make it more drinkable.
The region really didn’t have any guidelines for the “recipe,” so in the early 1900s, the government stepped in to help by classifying the area to decrease the huge amounts of faux Chianti produced.
They did this by acknowledging Chianti as both a wine region and a “recipe”. Then as all governments are wont to do, they passed many laws requiring winemakers to meet certain criteria if they want to put the name Chianti, Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) or Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) on the label.
In 1996, another major regulation modification brought about colossal change to the grape varieties permitted. The minimum percentage of Sangiovese increased from 75% to 80% and could be as much as 100%. In addition, the other twenty percent could be other native red grapes, such as Canaiolo, Mammolo, Colorino or even non-native varieties, such as Cabernet, Syrah or Merlot. As of 2006, white grapes are no longer permitted in a Chianti Classico.
Those stringent regulations included minimum alcohol levels, any new vineyard may only be used after its fourth year, yields must be less than 3.34 tons per acre, production is limited to 6.6 pounds per vine , seven months minimum barrel aging, for Riservas, 24 months minimum maturation with at least three months bottle aging and the most interesting and perhaps comforting, before bottling, the wine has to pass a chemical exam and approval by a tasting panel. Makes one kind of feel like royalty.
A few years ago, the Consorzio Gallo Nero organized the Chianti Classico 2000 Project to modernize viticulture and improve quality. This was sorely needed because during the 20th century, clones of Sangiovese, of which there are a boatload, were planted more for quantity than quality. When replanting, many growers planted whatever was available not taking into account the extreme soil and climatic differences around the region.
The project took 16 years to complete, 16 experimental vineyards, five research cellars; ten meteorological stations installed to track micro- and macro-climate patterns.
Hundreds of clones were identified. A few Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino clones were chosen because they were less susceptible common viral diseases, had smaller berries, thicker skins, and more open bunches.
Those clones are now producing some delicious Chianti Classicos. Look for the 2013 vintage to accompany your next plate of pasta. Or Sausage Pizza, or Spaghetti and Meatballs, or Rigatoni with Bolognese Sauce, or Wild Mushroom Risotto or Potato Gnocchi with Gorgonzola Sauce.
Chianti Classico refers to the oldest area, the classic region. It’s located between Florence and Siena and is the hub of the Chianti region within the larger Tuscan region.
Like spokes surrounding the hub, are seven other Chianti zones, each with its own particular soil, climate, and regulations. They are Colli Aretini, Colli Forentini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, Montalbano, Montespertoli and Rufina. On their labels are their Chianti names such as Chianti Colli Senesi (the hills of Siena) or Chianti Colli Forentini (the hills of Florence).
But enough of Italy, let’s talk about Washington State. There were about 400 tons of Sangiovese harvested in 2004. It’s a prolific but difficult vine, likened to Pinot Noir. Through the years planting increased and by 2015 tonnage was up to 1, 300.
It’s planted in some of the best vineyards in the Wahluke AVA, Red Mountain AVA and scattered around the Columbia Valley AVA.
Cavatappi’s with its red wine stained label, to the best of my
recollection has been around the longest, some 30 years. Leonetti,
Walla Walla Vintners, Five Star, Tagaris, and Kiona have also been
producing for some time with at least 75% being Sangiovese and
perhaps a touch of Cabernet in there as is done with the Super
Tuscans.
Smaller, newer wineries fermenting Sangiovese in no particular
order are Sequim’s Wind Rose Cellars, Vino la Monarcha from Victor
Palencia who also fashions Jones of Washington’s Sangiovese, Latah
Creek out of Spokane, Brian Carter’s has a little Cab and Syrah
added to his Sangiovese, Helix by Reininger, Maryhill Winery along
the Columbia River sources Sangiovese from Elephant Mountain
Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA, and Walla Walla’s Five Star
Quinque Astrum, which is Italian for five star.
The Rosé of Sangiovese by Barnard Griffin has won gold numerous
times and Waterbrook makes a pretty rose colored tasty one too.
Interesting note, the origin of the word Sangiovese is Latin for the blood of Jove. Jove or Jupiter, the king of the Roman gods, is best remembered for the exclamation of “By Jove! I think I‘ve got it!”
